Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

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unkycraig
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Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#1 Post by unkycraig »

Hey, I was tired of waiting to hear the cabs I built, so I broke down and got some Eminence 10's Kappa Pro 10LF for my Tuba 24s, I found some in stock in Vegas so I nabbed 'em.. They went in the cab, and sounded great. I had ordered Kappalite 3010LFs from speakerhardware.com, but they are in the same boat as everyone else, supply chain woes, we have been waiting more than two months now. Leland has been great. I have all the other parts I needed from him. My haste has caused me to purchase two different kind of speakers. They are pretty similar 277cc to 305cc or something, it doesn't matter. I know Bill F has stated never mix subs..... these are so close tho. I'm not gonna do it. I am planning to expand this rig and make 2 more tuba 24s, so it would be great if I could mix 'em.

Okay here's the questions:
I'm gonna have two spares of something. I'm going to test the kappapros vs the kappalites to see if there is a discernible difference. If not I'll use the kappapros they are cheaper and as of right now I am happy with them.

Now there will be two extra drivers. I am going to build two wedge horn 10s would these Kappalites be terrible for that( or kappa pros, depending?) One monitor would be back by/for the drummer and bassist so that would be a lot of low Hz info.

Might just build another Tuba 24 for a bass bottom to add for an Avatar 2x10. I was thinking about swapping the Beta 10s that are in the Avatar. I read a blog about someone hating Eminence 10's in their Avatar cabs many folks agreed with them. I am all about making up my own mind tho.

So I'm just throwing it out there, what would you build of Bill's designs besides a sub, that could use a pair of whatever I have left over?
The other option is to sell these speakers to one of you darling forum members. If it is the Kappa Pro 10 LFs one has about 15 minutes of being used with a power amp. Both were broken in for 12 hours with the radio on an old Marantz receiver. Other than that, brand new. One was installed the other went back in its box. I'd rather use 'em, that sell 'em. Not worried either way.
In Progress: Omni 12 Tallboy Bass
Complete: 4 Tuba 24, 2 SLA PRO 4x6

In the wings: DR250(probably not), 4 Wedgehorn 10s(probably), 2 More SLA 4x6s,

Dbx Driverack PA2
Dbx EQs 215, 2231
Dbx X-O 223xs
3 QSC GX7
3 JBL JRX212s

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Seth
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Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#2 Post by Seth »

Hi Uncle Craig,

Using voltage limits to calculate the difference between the two indicates the KL3010LF will have a 1.7dB advantage.
Using displacement (Vd) to calculate the difference indicates 1.5dB in favor of the KL3010LF.

1.7dB is an advantage. But, it will be barely noticeable in listening, unless the drivers have a noticeable difference in response curves in that specific cab. And, you'll only hear a volume difference at peak output.

By the numbers, it would take 4.9 (5) T24 cabs loaded with Kappa Pro 10LF's to match 4 cabs loaded with KL3010LF's.

The real benefits to the KL3010LF over the Kappa Pro 10LF is the weight savings and increased headroom while in normal (not maxed out) conditions. That, and there's a bit of pride that comes with having the premium driver loaded in your cabs, which is obviously worth more to some than others.

Other cabs that aren't subs... I grazed through a few of the plans and the only ones I saw that the spare drivers would be suitable for are Omni 12, Omni 12 Tallboy, or Simplexx 10. It's entirely possible I missed one or two. By the plans, it doesn't look like either of them would be a good match for the Wedgehorn 10. But, maybe there's a little wiggle room there. You would have to get Bills blessing on that one... or roll the dice and see what you think of the results. If the results aren't satisfactory, you could always get and install the recommended drivers after the fact.

Any pics of your build process or finished cabs?



Uncle Seth



A note on KL3010LF availability... Amazon has 9 in stock.


.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

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unkycraig
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Location: El Cerrito, CA

Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#3 Post by unkycraig »

Seth wrote: Tue Oct 19, 2021 11:34 pm Hi Uncle Craig,

Using voltage limits to calculate the difference between the two indicates the KL3010LF will have a 1.7dB advantage.
Using displacement (Vd) to calculate the difference indicates 1.5dB in favor of the KL3010LF.

1.7dB is an advantage. But, it will be barely noticeable in listening, unless the drivers have a noticeable difference in response curves in that specific cab. And, you'll only hear a volume difference at peak output.

By the numbers, it would take 4.9 (5) T24 cabs loaded with Kappa Pro 10LF's to match 4 cabs loaded with KL3010LF's.

The real benefits to the KL3010LF over the Kappa Pro 10LF is the weight savings and increased headroom while in normal (not maxed out) conditions. That, and there's a bit of pride that comes with having the premium driver loaded in your cabs, which is obviously worth more to some than others.

Other cabs that aren't subs... I grazed through a few of the plans and the only ones I saw that the spare drivers would be suitable for are Omni 12, Omni 12 Tallboy, or Simplexx 10. It's entirely possible I missed one or two. By the plans, it doesn't look like either of them would be a good match for the Wedgehorn 10. But, maybe there's a little wiggle room there. You would have to get Bills blessing on that one... or roll the dice and see what you think of the results. If the results aren't satisfactory, you could always get and install the recommended drivers after the fact.

Any pics of your build process or finished cabs?



Uncle Seth



A note on KL3010LF availability... Amazon has 9 in stock.





.
Uncle Seth---Thanks,
That is some good info.
Pics. Huh? Lets see if I can figure out how to upload this stuff.
In Progress: Omni 12 Tallboy Bass
Complete: 4 Tuba 24, 2 SLA PRO 4x6

In the wings: DR250(probably not), 4 Wedgehorn 10s(probably), 2 More SLA 4x6s,

Dbx Driverack PA2
Dbx EQs 215, 2231
Dbx X-O 223xs
3 QSC GX7
3 JBL JRX212s

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unkycraig
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Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#4 Post by unkycraig »

Well here is the rig so far, about a month in. These are 3/4 baltic birch. I had a few sheets of 3/4 ply left over from some furniture job. These are not perfect, this is my first time building something this boat like. They sounded (My bones felt) great.

Trying to start the DR250s. Trying also to source unavailable power amps. I have a QSC GX7, it works fine. And a B-Stock QSC GXD8 that arrived unusable. I'm really pissed about that. $150 service deposit vs returning it? I already took it to the authorized service center. The unresponsive sellers finally got back to me, offered to take it back, refund/find another option. Maybe I keep it, does anyone else like or need DSP units? I put together active crossover/eq/limit back up in the amp rig. So I can run a two or three way system if the GXD8 went down. It never got going.

You can see one of the two EV TL806 cabs I build in one of theses pics. Those are my guitar rig bins. Super sweet EVM 12Ls
Photos:

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO ... QgQIhnC9CM
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In Progress: Omni 12 Tallboy Bass
Complete: 4 Tuba 24, 2 SLA PRO 4x6

In the wings: DR250(probably not), 4 Wedgehorn 10s(probably), 2 More SLA 4x6s,

Dbx Driverack PA2
Dbx EQs 215, 2231
Dbx X-O 223xs
3 QSC GX7
3 JBL JRX212s

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Seth
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Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#5 Post by Seth »

Craig, those look great man! Nice 'n square, clean edges, spot on angles on all the joints... nice job! :thumbsup: Judging by your workspace, you're not new to woodworking, are you... :mrgreen:

Aimed more toward the casual reader/future builder; the use of ¾" ply is generally avoided in all of Bills designs. In most of the plans, it specifies ½" as the building material but doesn't say not to use ¾". However, a couple plans do state "You may be tempted to use ¾” plywood, but this design is so well braced that all you’ll gain is XX odd pounds of unnecessary cabinet weight. " It's one of those things that's been echoed, parroted, and regurgitated here on the forum over the years. Some have claimed that the altered internal dimensions of the horn negatively effects performance, but I can't recall Bill ever saying that. Conversely, I have read him state something to the effect of his designs being so forgiving that slight variations have minimal effect on performance. Just a little note about that. And Craig, you had the spare ply, so why not, right? And you're happy with the end product, so no harm-no foul. (until it comes time to lift and load them LOL).

I look forward to hearing of your progress through your DR250 build. If you start a build thread, there are people here that have built them who have handy tips and can help avoid pitfalls. I have all the material and parts for 4 DR200's collecting dust. Haven't had the inspiration to follow through on them yet. Your build could be just what I need!


OH! A little side note, Craig... If you haven't yet read the Rules for Subwoofer placement and stacking thread yet, check it out. Good info there to get the most out of your new toys.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

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Seth
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Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#6 Post by Seth »

unkycraig wrote: Wed Oct 20, 2021 3:12 pm...does anyone else like or need DSP units? I put together active crossover/eq/limit back up in the amp rig...
What are you using for crossover/EQ/Limit?

A brick wall limiter is required for your T24's, so they never see more voltage than the maximum stated in the plans (45v for the Kappa Pro's and 55v for the KL3010LF). Typically, the limiters in an amplifiers DSP aren't brick wall limiters. I haven't heard any stories of them being inadequate, but to err on the side of caution, the regulars here typically preach that outboard processors are mandatory. Typically any dbx Driverack (preferred) or Behringer DCX2496 will do (both can be found secondhand at a reasonable price). There are others, but if you choose another option, make sure it has a "Brick Wall Limiter". For instance, Peavy has come out with an outboard processor and it's manual isn't clear whether it's a Brick Wall limiter or not (it's way over priced too). Ashly has an outboard DSP processor (also fairly spendy) that does have a Brick Wall Limiter... But really, the dbx and Behringer are seemingly the most widely used. Certainly the most used by forum members here.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

Bruce Weldy
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Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#7 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Seth wrote: Thu Oct 21, 2021 1:29 pm Typically, the limiters in an amplifiers DSP aren't brick wall limiters.
+1
There are a few higher end amps that do indeed have voltage limiters - HOWEVER, those are probably going to be north of $1000. A lot of cheaper amps say they have peak limiters.....that's true, but it's there to protect the amp and does not have any variable voltage limiting to protect your drivers.
Typically any dbx Driverack (preferred) or Behringer DCX2496 will do (both can be found secondhand at a reasonable price).
+1
If you are a typical weekend warrior like most of us here - the cheaper amps and a Driverack will be the most cost effective way to drive these boxes.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

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unkycraig
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Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#8 Post by unkycraig »

Seth and Bruce: great info as usual here.
Definitely need the limiters they are on the list. Driverack search begins.

The amp situation. The QSC GXD8 ugh. Nothing but firmware warnings. 9 out of 10 start ups failed. Did several firmware updates nothing. Then the gain/DSP knob would not select presets. Stuck on preset one. QSC slow to respond. Days went by, then they just tell me to take it to service center. No, lets have a look, or try this, or screen share to Take over computer of the amp. PC only, lucky I still had an old desktop in the garage. these might as well use DOS. Maybe I just got the one crap amp. I don't have any other experience with QSC, except the QSC GX7 does what its supposed to, and my only note is the fan noise, which isn't that bad.

I have the seller refunding my purchase of the GXD8. The only other amp I could exchange for in their stable is a RMX 4050a class H simple, double the cost almost. I did find new, one of the last QSC GX7s available. Torn between classes. D and H.

Well folks what do you think a 4050a or another GX7??? I might get a GX5 instead, its for monitor duty. If the sub and mains amp, and the monitor amp were both GX7 then I could swap if one goes down.

This is for fullrange into the Tuba passive XO.

Future expansion 2 more Tuba 24, two more DR250, another GX7 or 4050a amp. Whichever behaves the best.

*****3/4 BB ply did take some of the already small Tuba 24 chambers a bit smaller. Less warping to deal with. If parts are square they stand on their own. More glue surface. Less chance for air leaks. More meat for the t-nuts. I made them 18 inches wide for transport. They aren't that heavy. I bet the 1/2 inch ones are really not heavy. I have the other two Tubas to make out of 3/4, then I am switching to 1/2 inch ply for the DR 250 and wedgehorns. The are so sexy, I'm thinking of staining them if I found a permanent install site.
In Progress: Omni 12 Tallboy Bass
Complete: 4 Tuba 24, 2 SLA PRO 4x6

In the wings: DR250(probably not), 4 Wedgehorn 10s(probably), 2 More SLA 4x6s,

Dbx Driverack PA2
Dbx EQs 215, 2231
Dbx X-O 223xs
3 QSC GX7
3 JBL JRX212s

Bruce Weldy
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Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#9 Post by Bruce Weldy »

unkycraig wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 12:03 am Driverack search begins.
Try Reverb.com, Craig's List, eBay, etc. The original PA, PA+, PA2 will do everything you need for a three-way system. If you are running the tops passive and are going two-way, then the PX will work fine too. You should be able to pick one up for $200 more or less. And there is nothing the PA2 can do that the original PA can't - other than have iPad control. But, once you set it up, there's really no need to be fiddling with it anyway.
I don't have any other experience with QSC, except the QSC GX7 does what its supposed to, and my only note is the fan noise, which isn't that bad.
I've used GX7s for years in a rig I run for a local band. They are good amps. Simple and light.
The only other amp I could exchange for in their stable is a RMX 4050a class H simple, double the cost almost.
And almost triple the weight.
Well folks what do you think a 4050a or another GX7??? I might get a GX5 instead, its for monitor duty.
Definitely the GX7. And I'd stay away from the GX3 and 5. They are a totally different amp from the GX7. They are much heavier. The GX7 weighs 12 pounds less than the lower-powered 3 and 5. They started with the 3 and 5, the when they added the higher-powered GX7, they grabbed a different design to round out the stable....so the name is the same, but it's a different amp.


*****3/4 BB ply did take some of the already small Tuba 24 chambers a bit smaller. Less warping to deal with. If parts are square they stand on their own. More glue surface. Less chance for air leaks. More meat for the t-nuts. I made them 18 inches wide for transport. They aren't that heavy. I bet the 1/2 inch ones are really not heavy. I have the other two Tubas to make out of 3/4, then I am switching to 1/2 inch ply for the DR 250 and wedgehorns. The are so sexy, I'm thinking of staining them if I found a permanent install site.
There truly is no reason to use 3/4" ply. If you use 1/2" Baltic Birch, there is no warping and you save 50% in cab weight. With the PL Premium, there are no air leaks if you do it right and follow the instructions. After building these cabs, I use 1/2" BB for just about everything I build - where in the past I would have used 3/4". I have leftover pieces of 1/2 BB in my garage that are years old and they are as straight as the day I bought 'em. Just be aware though, Baltic Birch is NOT the same as birch plywood. BB has equal plies and typically comes in 5x5 sheets (but you can get 4x8 also). It's sometimes called Russian or Finnish Birch also. It's the greatest thing since sliced bread.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

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unkycraig
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Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#10 Post by unkycraig »

Bruce Weldy wrote: Sat Oct 23, 2021 7:46 am
unkycraig wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 12:03 am Driverack search begins.
Try Reverb.com, Craig's List, eBay, etc. The original PA, PA+, PA2 will do everything you need for a three-way system. If you are running the tops passive and are going two-way, then the PX will work fine too. You should be able to pick one up for $200 more or less. And there is nothing the PA2 can do that the original PA can't - other than have iPad control. But, once you set it up, there's really no need to be fiddling with it anyway.
I don't have any other experience with QSC, except the QSC GX7 does what its supposed to, and my only note is the fan noise, which isn't that bad.
I've used GX7s for years in a rig I run for a local band. They are good amps. Simple and light.
The only other amp I could exchange for in their stable is a RMX 4050a class H simple, double the cost almost.
And almost triple the weight.
Well folks what do you think a 4050a or another GX7??? I might get a GX5 instead, its for monitor duty.
Definitely the GX7. And I'd stay away from the GX3 and 5. They are a totally different amp from the GX7. They are much heavier. The GX7 weighs 12 pounds less than the lower-powered 3 and 5. They started with the 3 and 5, the when they added the higher-powered GX7, they grabbed a different design to round out the stable....so the name is the same, but it's a different amp.


*****3/4 BB ply did take some of the already small Tuba 24 chambers a bit smaller. Less warping to deal with. If parts are square they stand on their own. More glue surface. Less chance for air leaks. More meat for the t-nuts. I made them 18 inches wide for transport. They aren't that heavy. I bet the 1/2 inch ones are really not heavy. I have the other two Tubas to make out of 3/4, then I am switching to 1/2 inch ply for the DR 250 and wedgehorns. The are so sexy, I'm thinking of staining them if I found a permanent install site.
There truly is no reason to use 3/4" ply. If you use 1/2" Baltic Birch, there is no warping and you save 50% in cab weight. With the PL Premium, there are no air leaks if you do it right and follow the instructions. After building these cabs, I use 1/2" BB for just about everything I build - where in the past I would have used 3/4". I have leftover pieces of 1/2 BB in my garage that are years old and they are as straight as the day I bought 'em. Just be aware though, Baltic Birch is NOT the same as birch plywood. BB has equal plies and typically comes in 5x5 sheets (but you can get 4x8 also). It's sometimes called Russian or Finnish Birch also. It's the greatest thing since sliced bread.

Bruce,

Yes. You keep hitting all the points I am concerned with. Thanks.

GX7----I was watching one for a few days, just committed to that, Its on the way! Just shipped the GXD8 back to seller. Had to stand in line with the early x-mas'r.

Luckily equipment weight isn't the issue I concern myself with. It's space. Space in car or li'l p-up. Storing this stuff.

Time is killing my motivation too. All this waiting for glue to dry..... When I weld I'm just cruising along, this joint, then this next one. Projects go pretty fast. Clean up can be interesting sometimes. This wood stuff takes forever. 4 days for the skin to die enough underneath for the PL adhesive to come off my hands. Now I have the box of gloves handy.

I will get the other Tuba 24s built out of 3/4 ply. Just so they all match. Then I will throw the rest of the material over in the furniture parts pile.

I can't complain really. I know everyone is losing their minds right now about sourcing...everything. I got some crossover parts from ERSE. Great stuff, the super Q coil. The order was short two little caps. I found them somewhere else. It just adds more days, again. I'm just trying to follow directions at this point, I know just enough to get the PA running, but I don't really have the grasp of why all these parts are used and if I am installing them correctly. I just seems like If I make one little mistake, melted driver, blown amp. This is stressful, the fantasy of plugging and playing....this is a marriage I am getting into. It's gonna take a lot of work. I am so glad I have this forum to reference .

MacBeath Hardwood has everything wood ply---- Birch, Baltic birch. 5x5 4x8. Very lucky to be close to those guys. $$$$$YIKES$$$$.
In Progress: Omni 12 Tallboy Bass
Complete: 4 Tuba 24, 2 SLA PRO 4x6

In the wings: DR250(probably not), 4 Wedgehorn 10s(probably), 2 More SLA 4x6s,

Dbx Driverack PA2
Dbx EQs 215, 2231
Dbx X-O 223xs
3 QSC GX7
3 JBL JRX212s

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unkycraig
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Location: El Cerrito, CA

Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#11 Post by unkycraig »

Another thing I notice about QSC. Their lower end units in whichever series is scant and thrifty. If you are comparing a few models in a series they might totally reconfigure the upper model or two in a way that almost warrants classifying them as a different amp all together. Very confusing, you have to do your homework.
In Progress: Omni 12 Tallboy Bass
Complete: 4 Tuba 24, 2 SLA PRO 4x6

In the wings: DR250(probably not), 4 Wedgehorn 10s(probably), 2 More SLA 4x6s,

Dbx Driverack PA2
Dbx EQs 215, 2231
Dbx X-O 223xs
3 QSC GX7
3 JBL JRX212s

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Seth
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Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#12 Post by Seth »

unkycraig wrote: Sun Oct 24, 2021 1:31 pm MacBeath Hardwood has everything wood ply---- Birch, Baltic birch. 5x5 4x8. Very lucky to be close to those guys. $$$$$YIKES$$$$.
I didn't realize El Cerrito was only about an hour from where I live (Lodi). I also get my Baltic Birch from MacBeath, but their Stockton location. Prices have always been reasonable (except for the 4x8 sheets) and they always seem to have it in stock.

If you want some help with the system, setting limiters and dialing in a base tune, I'm happy to drive out and assist.

Honestly, I'd just love to hear what the T24's are capable of, firsthand. So really, it's a very selfish offer. :)
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

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unkycraig
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Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2021 5:09 pm
Location: El Cerrito, CA

Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#13 Post by unkycraig »

Sure I'd take some help or you can just check 'em out(I'm swapping the Kappapros for the Kappalites when Eminence gets caught up). Not used to having people be so helpful or actually knowledgeable. This forum is great!

Vallejo. That is where I drag my stuff to. Band is located there, most of the shows are around Vallejo. My house/shop is in El C. Working on finding new venues Berk/Oak. Might even do a permanent install. We have a big show in Dec., there is a parade and an after parade show at the Odd Fellows Hall, Vallejo. Trying to get two dr250s done in time for that.

I had the Tubas running thru the drive racks full range-ish, just to trying them out quick. I haven't got the passive xo up yet, waiting on two li'l caps. They don't 'sound' like much. Unless you let a lot of mids bleed. I didn't like that sound so, I stayed away from those Qs. To 'feel' the sound though. Man, they are fast 'feeling', if that is a thing. It's just this instant thump, not a building, rolling, rattle sub, just tight and punchy in yer guts feeling. So if you want to see 'em, hopefully December, Fingers crossed. I have a lot of work before I'm at the help stage, with the DR250s. Sundays are usually band days. We are taking a few weeks off, then the Dec gig.

Honestly I was retired from music 15 years ago when I sold all my stuff. I had a pair of BAGEND AF-1's 18/10/horn 3 way cabs, a SWR Stereo bass head, and an 8 channel Peavey rack mount mixer. That "PA" it took about 5 minutes to set up. I don't know if it actually sounded good. It's just what I had. Back when Full Compass in Wisconsin was some other name in the 80's. We rented massive rigs thru them for big shows. I just got back into it music during the pandemic. Starting all over.
In Progress: Omni 12 Tallboy Bass
Complete: 4 Tuba 24, 2 SLA PRO 4x6

In the wings: DR250(probably not), 4 Wedgehorn 10s(probably), 2 More SLA 4x6s,

Dbx Driverack PA2
Dbx EQs 215, 2231
Dbx X-O 223xs
3 QSC GX7
3 JBL JRX212s

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Seth
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Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#14 Post by Seth »

Judging by the components listed in your signature line, you wont need or want passive crossovers in your T24's. Unless I'm overlooking something and you specifically want them for a specific use where you wouldn't be running through the Driverack.

December is nearly upon us. Better get cracking on those DR250's! DR's a a lengthy build. Not too difficult, just a lot more parts to craft than the other options.

What are you guys using for a mixer now-a-days?
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

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unkycraig
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2021 5:09 pm
Location: El Cerrito, CA

Re: Driver choices for a Tuba 24.

#15 Post by unkycraig »

Hey Seth,
Yeah I started the build not knowing how I am going to power all this. It took me about two weeks of pouring over specs and learning as much as the internet would give me. Pre-knowing about the drive racks I found the rack eqs, they were pretty cheap. I can sell them or use them in the practice room PA, or drag them to shows in case the drive rack craps out?

Then I had already ordered the parts kit from speaker hardware, there was a crossover in there.. At this point its just insurance, if someone does something while I'm not there, or the subs and tops won't have to work as hard. Also I paid for the parts might as well use them.

UNLESS it creates some weird noise loop or does the signal no favors by running through more component hoops????

The Tuba24 plans were going into detail about running the tops thru the subs using all these XOs. Seems to make sense...

But then folks tout the benefits of Bi-amppin', Tri-ampping? I thought I'd have to get 3 different levels of amps for the various stages of the freqs. Do they not use the passive XO's in the cabs when the drive rack is in the system?

I would LOVE to not have to deal with soldering more stuff together, but BILL SAYS....

I need more time. I'm lucky to get two hours every other day. Got kids schooling at home, and all the other work. Besides not even knowing I was going to have a PA three months ago, to building one is insane, just another first time doing something. My wife is like what are you doing this for? Well at the moment it is a hobby, we shall see where it goes.

Well Mixers: We have choices, just got a li'l A&H ZED 12 didn't wan't the FX, but it might come in handy and it has a USB, so recording. Perfect for our band. That ZED12 is the size of a suitcase I could even rack it. Then the bigger boy Soundcraft GB2 24 for bigger shows. That SoCft was the deal of the century. A school bought it, took it out of the box, pandemic, and sold it for half the cost new. Never powered up!!. Still can't believe it. I'm welding up stands and cases for everything concurrently, cuts into speaker building time. I think I am going to have to rip the back of my little Tacoma and put a flat bed back there to carry all this crap. Thank god Bill's Designs are small!
Attachments
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In Progress: Omni 12 Tallboy Bass
Complete: 4 Tuba 24, 2 SLA PRO 4x6

In the wings: DR250(probably not), 4 Wedgehorn 10s(probably), 2 More SLA 4x6s,

Dbx Driverack PA2
Dbx EQs 215, 2231
Dbx X-O 223xs
3 QSC GX7
3 JBL JRX212s

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