BillFitzmaurice.info

Frankie G wrote: just like posted above, I made sure there was good squeeze out ..........and scraped it clean after it cured.

This is the key to success, and no air leaks between panels and sides.

It can be built with a circular saw and jigsaw as the only power tools. More power tools than that are nice, but not an absolute necessity. AFAIK Noah built the Ark without any power tools. :mrgreen: +1 on all accounts! I built my AT with a circ. saw, jig saw, clamps, two foot square, and a drill. ...

[quote="camrynekai"....They are so clear that they will reveal poor talent and ..... [/quote]
And that's the only down side.

Jason, are you putting in all the panel braces after the panels are on, but before the side panels?

-1 on MDF. Go for a five-ply spruc/pine/fir instead. (with the usual void-free layers.....)

Bills cabs are in a whole different league...not to mention 100+ amps less power draw. Again Bill...GREAT work! I was wondering what exactly it was that you meant...I'm a little thick here. Are they as good or better? or louder? or cleaner? Also, I was curious how many ohms your OT2x12s are. Thanks.

Jasen Chandler wrote:Sorry correction it is 15/32.

OK, I'm relieved.
Carry on!

I should clarify...are you compensating for the extra panel width?

Out of curiosity, are you making sure that the horn paths are of the correct sizes/widths?

If you were to have just one device I think it should be the DCX2496, since it has cross-overs, parametric EQ, and limiting, all on each output. This is a little bit more than the DEQ2496.

I just searched and found these.... http://jwsdecks.com/jwswoodworking/contact-us http://kwartzlab.net/blog/robert-gissing/2009-08-26/hackers-map-waterloo-region The stuff and HD might be BB but it likely has a very thin veneer, so thin that you might need a magnifying glass. If it is, you might be ...

That's great.......that you found the problem, I mean. Something for the rest of us to keep an eye for.

Very good, Ron! I'm glad that it was not just thrown out then, but rather, it got recycled.

Did you mean car exhaust?

For silver soldering I use a Water welder which is an Oxy-Hydrogen flame through a methanol booster that burns up to 5000 degrees but is very tiny.Very effective and precise unit to work with but a tad costly. http://www.sra-solder.com/ww.htm Gack!!! sure is costly!!! But I can see the use for thos...

You need rosin-core solder......the thinner size being easier to get flowing.
The above post has good advice too (even though I can get by with a gun).