BillFitzmaurice.info

Don't bother with wood for the rails. When ever the humidity changes they'll swell or contract and either wobble in the channels on the saw or else stick like you wouldn't believe. And this is the last thing you want to happen to you while you're trying to cut wood! This is too much worry for nothi...

On mine I drilled clearance holes through the PE, counter sunk them, then used wood screws to attach the PE to the bottom of the sled. The screws bite into the wood, not the PE.! Wow...and I thought I lived in an upside down world :roll: :roll: - how simplke, why didn't I think of that? :lol: You m...

Drill, tap, and screw it. The only other way to reliably attach PE is to weld it. Actually I am glad you said to tap it because what some people do not realise is that because it's so user friendly for screws, the expansion away from the screw could cause bulging. In this case where a relatively sn...

Don't bother with wood for the rails. When ever the humidity changes they'll swell or contract and either wobble in the channels on the saw or else stick like you wouldn't believe. And this is the last thing you want to happen to you while you're trying to cut wood! What I've used in the past is UH...

Don't bother with wood for the rails. When ever the humidity changes they'll swell or contract and either wobble in the channels on the saw or else stick like you wouldn't believe. And this is the last thing you want to happen to you while you're trying to cut wood! What I've used in the past is UHM...

I was thinking (smell the smoke yet?) about it, and what I think it's going to look like is a pair of end plates with cleats to hold the panels in place. I'll make the cleats high enough to square the panels up. I've got a bunch of 3/4 inch pipe type bar clamps, so I can drill a hole through each pa...

Thanks, Mark! I think you are right, it was camryn that I remember. I knew it was someone who built a large number of Titans. I don't think I'll have too much trouble with the 1/4 BB bracing. It will be in 1/8" deep dados on both pieces which will take the warp out of it. If I can keep the asse...

Stan, Thank you for the reply! Yes that was part of what I remembered. Someone else had made a jig that held the internal panels all in place while being assembled. Since I plan on building 14" wide T39s, the single brace down the middle won't be enough to support the panels and keep them squar...

OK, someone who was building a bunch of T39 (I THOUGHT it was Stan from SoundInMotionDJ, but not sure) built an assembly jig for holding the inside baffle plates in place while the glue dried without having to attach a second virtual side and work around that. Pictures were posted. I can't find that...

... snip... I did a very quick mock up of a box to size DR200's and DR250's. It was surprising how much of a difference there is between the two boxes. I can get 4 DR250's in the back of the SUV, or 6 DR200's (with all the other stuff I need to take...including 4x T39 @ 14"). ... more snipping...

I also greatly admire Dave's workmanship. The overall look that Dave achieved on his DR280 cabs has inspired me to really consider the finish details on my yet to be built DR250s. That said, I really like the way the Titan style cutout handles worked for fender3x. I'm wondering how the box will 'han...

I've been sorting out the final build details for 8 DR250s before I start making with sawdust in the next couple weeks and wanted to ask about handles for them. I like the Penn Elcom H1105 type like Dave Perry used on his DR280 cabs. Will there be problems with the dish of the handle projecting into...