BillFitzmaurice.info

... Does the grille flex at all? I would be tempted to put mounting blocks in the middle of the baffle to add some strength. Did the handles turn out ok in the end? The handles are rock solid. The grille is actually touching the drivers' front gaskets so all in all there is very little scope for mo...

Apart from the weight, I am very pleased with the end result. It might be butt-ugly on the inside, but no one (apart from esteemed denizens of this website) will ever get to see it! It sounds good (loud, no rattles), looks good and is pretty robust. What would I do differently, if there is a next ti...

At long last the drivers arrived, and to my great relief they fitted perfectly (risk #1 was my relying on the Eminence website for cutout diameter, risk #2 was my ill-advised grille standoff). My son and I performed an inaugural sound test straight away (with a TC Electronics BH250), and were very i...

As discussed in a separate thread, the pocket handles I chose were very flimsy, especially as the cabinet was very heavy due to my poor choice of plywood. I therefore knocked up a couple of wedges to "buttress" the handle pockets against the (fortuitously positioned) corner vents. These we...

Gasketting the handles and jack plate with adhesive foam strip

I bought some aluminium bar to frame the grille, and cut it to size with a hand hacksaw.
I went for the brushed aluminium look, at first with an actual brush but then found that sandpaper gave a more uniform result.
Finished off with a sprayed layer of clearcoat.

I found a sheet metal workshop that sold me some perforated metal at a very good price, and cut to size.
I sprayed it with metal primer, then red enamel. This stuff forms a fine red dust that gets everywhere!

The magic of Duratex is that someone as obviously green as myself can get such a brilliant looking result!
I brushed on the first layer, sanded it, then put on two more with the roller.
As the Hobart summer was as unreliable as ever, I used the back my car as a curing oven.

I decided to build a grille standoff, which I don't think I would do again.

I used the same perspex jig to keep the router level when doing the roundovers. The "inset" baffle presented a problem, as the edges that extend past it are not thick enough to support the roundover bit's guide wheel. I therefore had to "pad it out" (and level everything) so that...

Attaching the back, being deliberately generous with the runny glue to guard against leaks.

I pressed the damping foam down on the bracing, then turned it over and marked the temporary indentations before they disappeared.

When removing some of the bracing screws, the glue had gripped them so firmly that they sheared right off. Fortunately, this didn't happen on any of the edges I intended to round over.

The bracing was clamped in an ever so slightly more legitimate manner

In keeping with the Jedi theme of this esteemed website, <gestures> "these are not the clamping images you are looking for"!