BillFitzmaurice.info

Thanks Bill
Every time you say something, I learn something.

@Bill Bill, in the past you have recommended that if someone is using/building horn-loaded speakers or subs, then all the speakers/subs in a system should be horn-loaded. However I notice above that you have recommended to the OP to use SLAs for his mains/centre. But if he was going to include horn-...

My concern with the MCMs is that they have foam surrounds.
I've replaced/ thrown away too many speakers where the foam surround has totally disintegrated.
Whereas the equivalent Dayton has a rubber surround (and easier to obtain in Australia).

There are plenty of sites on the internet regarding placement of subs. But before you read any, search for a white paper by Todd Welti from Harmon Kardon. Using computer software he investigated hundreds of sub positions, utilising from one sub up to 20 or more. For two subs he found the best positi...

Hmm, when in doubt, read the instructions. :oops: Sorry Bill, I didn't realise that the TT didn't have an access side cover. I assume that's what gives the TT a boost around 30-40Hz. The bigger opening would also make installing the driver easier. Interesting how critical the TT's placement is too. ...

Hi Guys If I go ahead, I can get Dayton DCS 205-4s for $129au each from two Australian outlets - Wagner's and TheLoudspeakerKit. Wagner's shipping is $9,90 for two. Would save a lot of hassle. I'm not intending to have an AVR (the mains will be small powered speakers - Vanatoo T0s), so the subs will...

And that OT was all started by Bill.
But I think Bill's right.

I guess the bottom line is "which is the best 8" BFM sub for movies"?

I'm a bit confused. Table Tuba has a construction Degree of Difficulty of 3, but has 9 folds in the horn. The Tuba 18 has a Degree of Difficulty of 5, but has only 7 folds in the horn. Can people comment on what they have found is the construction degree of difficulty of these two subs. Currently I ...

Thanks Shawn.
I'll check them out.

As Grant realised, I want two, to counteract room modes.
Also the main area I'm interested in is the 40-70Hz range, for the most impact in movies.

Hi Grant Been seeing a few of your posts on face book. Guess you're a real "bushie" now. We are currently downsizing our home and I'm not too sure what the new home will provide in the way of rooms. The "Home Theatre" could probably end up being the Living Room. At this stage I'm...

Hi I built a couple of T39s in 2016 for pro use. I now want to build two Subs for my small home theatre. Unless someone suggests otherwise, my current plan is to build two Tuba 18s. My questions are :- 1. My plans were bought in November, 2014. Have the Tuba 18 plans been updated since then? 2. What...

Hi Grant Sorry the feed isn't as good as the news broadcasts make it out to be. I'll definitely take a look at building a frame for the mixer. I can buy lengths of alloy angle in various sizes and colours from Bunnings (also lengths of small SHS). I should be able to make something out of that. :D I...

Note the amount I had to trim from the flange around the opening to be able to slide the speaker in. Did you have to do this to the top flange as well? Couldn't quite see in your pics... Hi Grant Bit green out your way I believe. :D No, I only trimmed the flange at the bottom. I slid the top edge o...

Hi Guys I finally finished my two T39s. I finished them with Duratex after first coating them with a matt black. Not too sure if the matt black undercoat was necessary. But I got the advice from someone in the forum, so i did what I was told. :bash: Anyway, you can see the finished cabinets with the...

Thanks guys. I'm pretty happy with the graphs (BTW, the sweep stopped at 200Hz). Would you believe that I still haven't fired them up in angry yet. :roll: They are for my daughter's band which are touring interstate at the moment. To integrate them with their existing system (speakers-on-sticks), I ...