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if i have to settle for something, is marine 1/2inch ply the absolutle least i should accept?

ok, thats what i thought, i just read on the "freespeakerplans" website that some ply wood can split and look daggy also. my only local woodplace shut down, so the hardware store only carries basic ply... i dont even think its marine grade...

yea, i did read that. looks like the 90 degree with that extra plate is def the way to go. thanks for the help. i do have one last confirmation type question, is MDF a big no no?? or is just that its heavy and splits?

http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.speakerporn.com/albums/userpics/10035/normal_lab_sub_stack.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.speakerporn.com/displayimage.php%3Falbum%3D4%26pos%3D67&usg=__caSQU4l4UmJgqDyIZsqrjXCwmiY=&h=300&w=400&sz=19&hl=en&start=0&tbnid=9IrGQ...

awesom. i had tried downloading hornresp previously but for some reason wasnt available. but now is!! =] also i have a question regarding the tubas im going to build, the common practise seems to be butting them up at 90 degrees with an expansion plate to increase the size of the mouth, which makes ...

First, why? It's obviously a kick bin, but the desired frequency range is a little more than one octave. Implementing this would be difficult. Kick bins usually introduce more problems than they solve. Second, what style of music? Third, what other cabinets are in use? Fourth, what's the budget, an...

awesome, so are your bass cabs tubas or titans? will a pair of tuba30's in the same config be ok for a kick drum like that or better suited to EDM?

or better question, do you even run the kick drum thru the horns at all? probly wouldnt need to would you?

when designing a new bass horn, beside specific driver data (of course) how do you work out what sizes the throat/mouth(bell) length and the sealed chamber??? my friend wants a box made specifically for 80hz>200hz but running two cheap fifteens in one box, but he wants something similar to a W enclo...

Here's some pics of and outside venue with the T-39s V-plated...

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that looks like a really neat setup. how did it sound like that?

until discovering BFM cabs, i always thought that keeping the subs left and right helped the dispersion. oh so wrong...

located in australia. east coast.

so as long as its 5 ply, is there a reason for specifying baltic birch besides its strength? is there anything wrong with generic ply i can get at the hardware store? my thoughts were that as long as its braced properly it should be ok? can i put a bitumen based sealant on the cabs? its an automotiv...

do i have to use ply?? is it the weight factor or the sound factor? also, what should i coat them in?

if i carpet them on the inside will that affect the sound?

and do i need to fill the sealed part of the tuba with wadding or anything like that?

cool, so brand new question!! =P whats better in regard to a horn tweeter?
a smooth glossy shiny horn or a textured type finish?

and then on to the shape, whats the difference between a rectangular parabolic type horn
compared to the flat sided type with different angled sections?

i would like to thank everyone who has attempted to help on this topic. i know i havent exactly been easy to help, but i am gratefull for all of the advice. i guess i was finding it hard to believe becuase of my preconceptions on what works. setup= 2x tuba30 +2x eminence delta 12LFA on 200w each. + ...

ko, good advice thanks bruce. would you suggest then sealing up the full range cab so its no longer reflex? since i would no longer need the extra extention of bass. ? and then in saying that, i have a choice of two different woofers? should i use the one with the higher power handnling, or the ligh...