BillFitzmaurice.info

Listen indoors, it will be totally different.

It's the combination. The 22uF cap prevents frequencies below the crossover frequency from reaching the driver, at a rate of 6dB/octave. The coil shorts to ground frequencies below the crossover frequency, at a rate of 6dB/octave. The 33uF cap adds another 6dB/octave, for a total of 18dB/octave. But...

You may need additional gasketing to keep the cone from hitting the baffle. But still do an RTA, there should be little power to it below 400Hz.

Double sided tape.

You can't gauge what's happening with your ears, as hearing is more sensitive as you go higher in frequency. You have to RTA each element individually.

A mistake in the crossover wouldn't cause hiss. A cock up in the low pass might attenuate the woofer, making the tweeter more prominent. Tweeters, all drivers for that matter, don't create sound, they can only reproduce what's sent to them. Chances are you won't run the tweeter at more than 1/4 leve...

Verb wrote: ↑Sun May 21, 2023 3:26 pm I am getting a fair amount of hiss from the tweeter, is this normal, or have I messed up somewhere?

Tweeters don't hiss. Electronics do.

Same deal with the 2x10, you don't have enough power for it to make a substantial difference.

Going to an LF driver only helps if you have enough power to make use of the additional xmax. The 3012HO will take 180w without exceeding xmax.

Using a Table Tuba in a car would waste space going lower than you have any use for. It's like driving a two ton pickup when you never haul anything more than two bags of groceries. But there's many who do just that. :roll: As for those drivers, I can't recommend anything that doesn't have full spec...

Coarse thread. They're expressly designed for going into plywood, making them ideal for driver mounting.

Music doesn't go low enough to justify a TT, especially when cabin gain is taken into account.

They do. I always have some on hand for any job where I want to use a screw that doesn't countersink.

1/4" lags is overkill. What works very well is metal roofing screws, which come in many lengths and have a 1/4" hex head.

I used to use T-nuts, for the usual reason: that's what everyone used. After having more than a few strip out or spin out I gave up on them.