BillFitzmaurice.info

The 2+/2- are there to allow running a single 4 conductor cable to the subs from the amps, and then run cables from the subs to the mains, with the mains using 2+/2-.

No difference, they're parallel wired.

I didn't mention it before but there is another reason for not turning everything on at once. Every device has a high current surge at turn on, until the filter caps charge up. Individually it's not a concern, but with multiple devices it can be enough to pop the supply breaker. Since power amps hav...

Yes to all.

Try reversing the polarity of the tweeters, that may fix the dip.

You can use it in both applications with either configuration. The difference is width of the dispersion angle.

You'd need a power strip that will sequentially turn on/off the components, with the power amps last to go on, first to go off. If such a thing exists I'm not aware of it. Making sure everything is working is what sound checks are for.

It's for HT components that don't have an on/off switch.

The only concern with separate power amps is to turn them on last, otherwise turn on transients from the gear before them can cause thumps. By the same token turn them off first. HT AVRs do this by themselves, it's why there's a delay between when you turn on the power and sound is heard.

Sure, since you have to import Dayton, but there must be other options at a sensible cost. For instance: https://lavocespeakers.com/product/ssf102-50l/

You don't need to replace both. The Dayton is as good as any in that price range.

It should work just fine. Vas is the least critical spec. But it's mighty pricey. I can see its value in a pro-sound T24 or T39, but for home theater it's overkill.

Building a DR250 is not more difficult than an OTop 12 JArray, it just takes longer.

That amount of bass makes perfect sense when you look at an equal loudness chart.

Bass is most prominent in the 60 to 90 Hz range, so if you want more thump that's where you boost EQ.