BillFitzmaurice.info

I had good luck using a single nitrile glove, with my right hand ungloved. (I'm right-handed.)

This was someone else's suggestion, but it worked for me. I could goop up the gloved hand, while keeping my right clean for tools.

Since the Duratex takes about a week to fully cure, I'm also in agreement that hitting it with a solvent is a bad idea. The surface isn't finished with its chemical reaction till the curing is complete.

The jack plugs only close up an unused jack. If you have air leaking through the jack, they won't help. On my omni15TB I built a small wood "cigar box" that I installed inside the cab. Wires are sealed where they pass from the jacks through the wall of the box, so there's no worry about se...

What I did for a beautiful Duratex finish: 1. Sanded with 60 grit, per Bill's advice. 2. Wipe with a painter's tack cloth. 3. A single rolled base coat of black latex satin. 4. Touch-up of missed spots and a very light once-over sanding. 5. The first Duratex coat, using a foam texture roller. Looks ...

I never realized the T24 was that complicated inside! Construction difficulty 5...looks tougher than that.

I love the panel sitting off to the right in photo #4. You should pop it into a picture frame and sell it!

I was able to get more sensible measurements yesterday, after understanding more about the program. It looks promising; it's free, and the author is responsive at the REW forum. Using the built-in audio output from the MacBook Pro is causing a couple of pops at the start of the sweep, which may be t...

Yeah, I'd expect the rolloff at 35Hz should continue downward rather than bumping up again in the 20s. It's probably the calibration files for the audio interface not set up properly. I also didn't have levels correct in some cases; more learning for me over the next few days. And I now have a cal f...

I've been fooling around with the free RoomEQWizard program. It's available for Mac and Windows at http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq . You have to download from the Home Theater Shack forum site at http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/ , which requires free registration. There's also a forum ...

The Inverse Square occurred to me later, but I'm glad to have confirmation. 100w ought to be quite loud for the test!

28.3v is 100w.

If we're moving from 1m to 10m, shouldn't it be 10w, which is 8.95v?

At what frequency should I set the initial voltage? 100Hz?

So where do you set voltage?

1. I know it's 2.83v for the 1w/1M measurement.

2. 8.95v for the 10w/10M measurement?

2. At what frequency do you initially set the voltage? Running an automatic sweep doesn't let you measure everywhere along the spectrum.

Nice to have a few square miles of parking lot! I think I've found my location. Easy load-in, access to power, lots of pavement, far enough from structures and the street. It's behind an old two-story grammar school building here in town. It's now used as a theatre facility, and I know the folks in ...

Thanks! Now I just have to find a big open space with AC power.

I've got an ECM8000 mic on the way, so it's time to run some SPL tests on my omni15TB. And I'll run comparisons against the two Eden 112XLTs while I'm at it. (Both a single 112 and the pair.) I won't be lifting cabinets off the ground. A few questions: 1. How far from buildings? In front? Behind? To...

Count, I went ahead and ordered a pair of plans: O15TB and Omni10, saving a few bucks in the process. Bill also throws in plans for building a panel-jig attachment with orders for 2+ plans. (It isn't like I need an omni10.5, but as soon as I find a super deal on a 2510 driver, I can't resist. Heck, ...