BillFitzmaurice.info

So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away. Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sti...

So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away. Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sti...

You're probably going to want to use something a little more air tight than foil. I usually cut off a finger from a disposable glove and wrap it tightly with masking tape. But there's a few methods people use that seem to work. If you stick with the tin foil and nail, let us know how it fares. Hope...

Started using PL adhesive to secure the retaining blocks on the baffle. For some reason I decided to make it more difficult for myself and use clamps instead of drywall screws to temporary hold them together. I did four of them for now, I'll use drywall screws for the remaining four. The finished t6...

Oh and a pic below.

It's not supposed to be linear, it's supposed to be logarithmic. Doubling of volume isn't twice the power, it's ten times the power. What I meant to say was the actual knob on the amplifier. I found out what I was doing wrong. My source is a laptop which signal is very weak. Switch to go through mi...

Still working on the baffle. Decided to do the break in process for the lab 12, per the plans. My amp is a QSC plx 1804. Not going to lie I don't have experience with speaker Excursion outside of an enclosure, so it's a bit nervous feeling when I see the surround flexing a lot. A quarter turn of the...

Hope this thread isn't too dead yet. For the original question, I'd keep the drive rack just for the security of making it harder to accidentally change the settings. I use both Xair and X32 on a regular basis. My main system is the Midas M32C with DL32. Most things are going to be similar. Especia...

Man if they were 20" T39s I would've taken em

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2026 8:14 am It's easier to cut the hole with multiple passes, going through it in one pass bogs the router down and overheats the bit.

Will keep that in mind for next time, yes it did sound like it was bogging down a bit. Circle looks quite good though.

Made progress yesterday! Decided to jump around from the plans, instead of gluing the first panel I decided to work on the baffle. The Jasper Jig was crucial, thanks to the person who recommended that, it was either Bruce or Seth I believe. First time using a router so the setup for the router and T...

A few pics of the panel cut and the jig I'll use for the hole. If the hole requirement per plan is 10 3/4" for lab 12, do I add 1/4" to account for the bit diameter? , thus putting in 11" for the Jasper jig? Edit : I read The Jig more closely and it says it's calibrated already to use...

So I was actually able to get the side panel cut out today. It's a little bit rough as I freehanded some of it. Should be able to look much better cosmetically at the end of the build where I sand it and will finish it. Getting an HTTP error when I'm trying to upload image. Next I'm going to do the ...

Seth wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2026 3:34 pm

Joman116 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2026 2:36 pm Thanks Billy.

Billy?

You guys playing tether ball down by the swing set later?

Race ya to the monkey bars!

Ha whoops. Autocorrect. *Bill!

Yes, you'd plane a panel that's too wide but rout or sand the second side to remove any overhang. Thanks Billy. Finally the drawings are all complete and connect the lines on both sides of each panel. Next up is to cut out the access panel I hope to get through that before Easter. 1000114055.jpg 10...