BillFitzmaurice.info

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Thu Jun 25, 2026 3:26 pm Just checked my supplier in San Antonio. 1/2" Baltic Birch 5x5 - $44.39

So, look for the wholesale guys. Call a cabinet shop and ask 'em who they buy from.

Loos like prices have come down compared to late last yr. That's good.

Baltic Birch 9 ply 1/2 in the OH, KY, WV tri-state area. While looking over plans and researching local specialty wood suppliers I made a phone call to a local commercial custom wood shop just down the road called Quality Woods in Eleanor, WV. I’m about an hour from Ashland, KY, Huntington, WV, and...

kkip wrote: ↑Sat Jun 06, 2026 8:28 am Bumping for new low price. I also have a pair of T39s (20" - 3012LF) that I would consider selling with them if you want a whole set.

Interested in the T39's..

For sale: complete Bill Fitzmaurice PA system in excellent condition. System includes: • (2) DR250 mains • (2) T39 folded horn subs • (4) Wedgehorn 8 monitors • Peavey IPR-2000 amp • Peavey IPR-3000 amp • Rackmount power conditioner • Speaker cables • Speaker stands All cabinets professionally buil...

Tom Smit wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2026 9:05 pm Did you try the trick of coating the roll with chalk, and then trying it?

I put the order in yesterday so the chalk should arrive today. I was trying to avoid buying another piece of apparatus but don't want to screw this up.

All right folks I have returned. I test fitted the driver and installed it with the recex screws. I ran the 20 Hertz test tone. There's a lot of vibrations so it's really quite difficult to determine if the speaker cone surround is hitting the baffle. The sounds that I hear are either the piece of w...

Tom Smit wrote: ↑Sun Apr 19, 2026 9:44 pm

Joman116 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 19, 2026 7:28 am I will 100% be doing a driver fit test, driving the RECEX screws in, before adding panels, forgot to mention that.

Predrill the screw holes in the blocks first, before driving the screws in, okay?

Got it.

I hope I'm wrong, but a few of them appear as though they may be too far out from the ledge. Driver screw holes are pretty close to the cutout diameter. I'd trial fit and screw down the driver before installing that panel, just to make sure the screws actually go into the retention blocks. Not a hu...

Well here is a Pic of the baffle retaining blocks all complete. More progress in two weeks. That'll be panel installation time!

Glued and clamped the last two retaining blocks for the baffle today. Enjoy the bottoms up Pic. This will be the last of it till I return in two weeks. Man the Pl premium is absolutely BEAST...

So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away. Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sti...

So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away. Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sti...

You're probably going to want to use something a little more air tight than foil. I usually cut off a finger from a disposable glove and wrap it tightly with masking tape. But there's a few methods people use that seem to work. If you stick with the tin foil and nail, let us know how it fares. Hope...

Started using PL adhesive to secure the retaining blocks on the baffle. For some reason I decided to make it more difficult for myself and use clamps instead of drywall screws to temporary hold them together. I did four of them for now, I'll use drywall screws for the remaining four. The finished t6...

Oh and a pic below.