I’d heard that the Wedgehorn10s were a tough build. After cracking open the plans I could see why. The horn side panels are beveled on 3 sides while angled on two. It’s the two angled sides that require a compound miter cut.
At first look, I thought I was going to have to use a circular saw with crosscut sled. But, I really didn’t want to screw up my sled with the angled cuts and I abhor using a circular saw with a perfectly good table saw available. After cogitating a while, this solution worked really well and actually was very easy. I cut 6 side panels, 3 top panels, and 3 bottom panels in about 45 minutes.
First, make sure that you draw your panels as mirror images. You need the cut lines to show.
Since the front and back of the Side Panels are parallel, go ahead and make these cuts.
For the top and bottom of the side panels, use a piece of scrap plywood to serve as a sled. Set the blade to the proper angle. Line up your cut lines to the edge of the sled (you’ve already run this through the saw to make sure it is parallel to the fence). Take two scraps and tack them with a brad nailer snug up against the two edges with a half an inch or so hanging out over the edge.
Move the fence over a little and run the sled through the saw so that you just cut the protrusions. This cuts the protrusions to proper angle.
Now replace the panel and line it up to the edge of the protrusions. Make the same cut on all of the panels if you are building multiple cabs.
Easy solution for cutting the horn panels on the WH10
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Easy solution for cutting the horn panels on the WH10
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
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Re: Easy solution for cutting the horn panels on the WH10
Now for the mirror image panels, start the process over and run all of them. Notice the different orientation of the stops.
Now use the same process for the other angle cut, doing first the 3 left panels, then resetting the sled and doing the right sides.
With a brad nailer and some scraps, this goes real quick. After three cuts, just pop ‘em off, chunk ‘em, and start with some new scraps. I used ¾” brads so they didn’t go in very far.
You can use this same process for the top and bottom panels too.
Here's what the side panels look like...
Now use the same process for the other angle cut, doing first the 3 left panels, then resetting the sled and doing the right sides.
With a brad nailer and some scraps, this goes real quick. After three cuts, just pop ‘em off, chunk ‘em, and start with some new scraps. I used ¾” brads so they didn’t go in very far.
You can use this same process for the top and bottom panels too.
Here's what the side panels look like...
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Posts: 8322
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Easy solution for cutting the horn panels on the WH10
This same process works well for the side panels of the box. This way you get exactly the same cuts for all panels.....easier to square up that way
And what the hell.....it's a great way to turn scraps into perfect braces...6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: Easy solution for cutting the horn panels on the WH10
Great pics Bruce. I did a real similar thing for mine. I am going to build something like this, only bigger soon and test it out.
http://home.comcast.net/~kathymatsushit ... btaper.jpg
I have some of these clamps laying around from when I had a brief stint as a luthier, so I figure its worth a shot.
Cheers,
Benj
http://home.comcast.net/~kathymatsushit ... btaper.jpg
I have some of these clamps laying around from when I had a brief stint as a luthier, so I figure its worth a shot.
Cheers,
Benj
Authorized Builder
http://www.westsoundsystems.com (under construction)
Donating a portion of all proceeds to the Friends of Falun Gong
http://www.fofg.org
Peavey and Madisound Dealer
http://www.westsoundsystems.com (under construction)
Donating a portion of all proceeds to the Friends of Falun Gong
http://www.fofg.org
Peavey and Madisound Dealer
- Rune Bivrin
- Posts: 521
- Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 5:42 pm
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Re: Easy solution for cutting the horn panels on the WH10
This is definitely one of those cases where the Festool or Makita sink saws win by a mile.
But a great contraption nevertheless, Bruce!
But a great contraption nevertheless, Bruce!
In build order:
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)
- LelandCrooks
- Posts: 7244
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- Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
- Contact:
Re: Easy solution for cutting the horn panels on the WH10
Very good. Similar to what I do with a sled for angle cuts, looks faster.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com
http://www.speakerhardware.com
Re: Easy solution for cutting the horn panels on the WH10
Nice tip Bruce!
Built:
2 OT12's 2512 CD
2 OT12's 2512 Melded Array
4 Titan 39's 30" 3012LF
4 Titan 39's 20" 3012LF
6 Wedgehorn 8's
1 Wedgehorn10
2 AutoTuba's 18" w/MCM 8"
https://www.facebook.com/pages/LSW-Lana ... 080?ref=hl
2 OT12's 2512 CD
2 OT12's 2512 Melded Array
4 Titan 39's 30" 3012LF
4 Titan 39's 20" 3012LF
6 Wedgehorn 8's
1 Wedgehorn10
2 AutoTuba's 18" w/MCM 8"
https://www.facebook.com/pages/LSW-Lana ... 080?ref=hl
Re: Easy solution for cutting the horn panels on the WH10
that is some good thinking
Re: Easy solution for cutting the horn panels on the WH10
Benj. I see the Dewalt portable saw in your picture. I have found mine to be an extremely good tool and capable of very precise work too. I hardly use my Ryobi B300 anymore.