Re: Joe's Omni 15 Tallboy
Posted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 9:32 pm
Looks great! Too bad about the first one; I'm curious about how much difference that inch would make acoustically...
Yeah, I wonder. Maybe somebody who knows will chime in. I resisted the urge to throw it in my burn barrelctmullins wrote:I'm curious about how much difference that inch would make acoustically...
You could just PL 1" strips, or the cutoffs, back on to save them. PL, wax paper, some wood cauls and some spring=loaded clamps, dampen the joints, lay down the PL, attach the strips, then spring clamps over wood cauls over wax paper. Give it a day or 2 to fully cure (bringing them into the warmer house helps a LOT) then sand and trim.jdmrivera wrote:Yeah, I wonder. Maybe somebody who knows will chime in. I resisted the urge to throw it in my burn barrelctmullins wrote:I'm curious about how much difference that inch would make acoustically...
http://www.centauriaudio.com.au/diy/plugs.htmljdmrivera wrote:General question about design.
The midrange driver is 6.5" diameter but the horn for it only has a 3.5" opening (less really with the plug) where the driver attaches to the horn. I'm curious how that works with covering up so much of the driver.
Thanks for the link.CoronaOperator wrote: http://www.centauriaudio.com.au/diy/plugs.html
Do this outside, as far away as you can from buildings and vehicles. 30Hz can cause so many objects to resonate.jdmrivera wrote:After letting the large driver play all night on the bench with a 30hz tone at about 11 volts, I noticed a slight buzz that seemed to be coming from somewhere near the outside edge of the cone. Couldn't really identify exactly where. I'll turn it on again this evening and see if it's still doing it.
Will do. I also picked up an Inuke NU3000DSP. Will be interesting to see if that makes any difference.DJPhatman wrote:Do this outside, as far away as you can from buildings and vehicles. 30Hz can cause so many objects to resonate.
Have you ever picked a dandelion and then held it in your hand and flicked off the flower? Cause if there is more than 3 or 4 volts going the wrong way through a polar cap that is what happens to the top of it. As audio is AC it gets current in both directions. I don't have the plans in front of me but I would double check to see if a polarized cap is acceptable.The capacitor I bought is polarized. Is there any issue with connecting the negative lead on the cap to positive input?
https://www.parts-express.com/ruby-gold ... r--020-668
The plans use this capacitor symbol on the schematic which is polarized. the plans don't specifically say polarized or not but they do mention electrolytic which I believe are normally polarized. At least the ones I bought are.CoronaOperator wrote: I don't have the plans in front of me but I would double check to see if a polarized cap is acceptable.
Well it turns out I was being dense - the woofer was face up on my bench and air was moving out from underneath the magnet. When I pick it up - no more buzz!After letting the large driver play all night on the bench with a 30hz tone at about 11 volts, I noticed a slight buzz that seemed to be coming from somewhere near the outside edge of the cone. Couldn't really identify exactly where.
I'm disappointed with parts express. All the caps I bougt from them look like this: Notice the arrow pointing to the negative lead. Guess I should have bought parts from Leland.Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Crossover caps are never polarized.