milehighassassin wrote:TIP While I'm thinking about it, I highly recommend you cut the width of all your pieces at once. I rough cut everything and then I went back and cut the width with the table saw set in the same position. Everything is exact and that will make this build a lot easier.
+1 Good Tip
I always make all passes at one width at the same time. Takes a little planning to layout your cuts properly to do this, but it's well worth it.
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
88h88 wrote:Good tip if you have access to a table saw! If not, don't worry about it!
For those that do not, the lumber store will usually cut your stock down to width for free on their panel saw. If you get them to do all the panels at once (maybe even a bit more for spares) then they will all be the same.
So this is slowly coming along. I have the horn complete, building inside to out. Need to put the braces in on the last section of the interior horn, then I'll be able to do the outside as well as the required braces. I think I can get most of this done on Sunday. I have a lot of pics but the forum doesn't like the size. At some point they will come.
Honestly the hardest part for me is getting good brace fitment. They require some minor tuning for good fit. I'm probably being more exact than needed.
Cabinet and all braces minus the final optional brace is complete. I need to put one side on it still. I am a little out of square now. I assume its from clamping and pulling it towards the middle to get a good fitment on the braces. Gonna square up the final side piece as close as I can and then trim it with a router to get it square and even. Then I need to mount the driver, attach my access panel which is above the opening. So I need to fit the door.
How often do I need to access the driver? I can probably set it and forget it right? I was going to put a twist on the outside that holds it shut with pressure, but thinking I will be ahead to just use screws and leave them.
After that is complete I should be able to finish it.
The only regret I have is I wish I had used a solid piece of wood on all the corners to hide the unfinished baltic birch end. Running a solid piece of walnut or cherry would have looked pretty slick. Maybe next time.
milehighassassin wrote: I am a little out of square now. I assume its from clamping and pulling it towards the middle to get a good fitment on the braces.
Rookie mistake. Use jigs to square everything, put the braces in position, let the expanding PL adhesive fill any gaps.
milehighassassin wrote:How often do I need to access the driver? I can probably set it and forget it right? .
That's the idea yeah, but a few users here have described the bolts loosening off a little when they've opened up the driver chamber after being used for a while.
I'm wondering if something like nutlock would be a decent idea or not to use in this instance, or perhaps nylock nuts on the other side of the t-nuts. Bill would be the one to know about such things.
88h88 wrote:
I'm wondering if something like nutlock would be a decent idea
Not really, as bolts don't spontaneously loosen by themselves. The driver gaskets may compress over time, and that's what allows the bolts to loosen. That's one reason why I recommend screws over bolts, as screws won't loosen even if the gasket compresses.
Alright, we're about done. Mounted the access panel screwdown plates. Basically a frame on the inside to screw the access panel into. I mounted the woofer before I put the side on, just because it is easier. Covered the woofer with some packing paper in case I get any major PL drippage. Put the side on, pinned it in a few spots and then clamped the top and bottom edges, placed 4 sets of tile (in the box) in the center of the THT. Just waiting for it to all dry, then I'll chisel off the PL. Then I'll run an edge trimmer router bit down the side to even up the panels. I already routed the edges flush on all panels except the final side piece.
Oh I sanded and cleaned up the firing hole, since that is the only internal spot you will see. Just wanted to get a few pencil marks off, PL off, make it look neat. Ran one bead of PL on the lone panel I had any question whatsoever about leaking. I really don't think it would leak, but I wanted to be sure.
Should be able to finish soon. Thinking I will do a light rounding of the corners to make them less sharp.
Bill, I have hardwood floors. Will this be fine on the floor our should I put a small carpet under it, maybe rubber drawer liner?
milehighassassin wrote:
Bill, I have hardwood floors. Will this be fine on the floor our should I put a small carpet under it, maybe rubber drawer liner?
You need a carpet or rugs covering at least 80% of the floor. Otherwise you'll end up with subway acoustics. Wood looks nice, sounds bad.
Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Not really, as bolts don't spontaneously loosen by themselves. The driver gaskets may compress over time, and that's what allows the bolts to loosen. That's one reason why I recommend screws over bolts, as screws won't loosen even if the gasket compresses.
Won't compressed gaskets allow air seepage past the face gasket, regardless of fastener type? (Granted, screws' immobility will not increase this gap the way vibrating looser bolts will.)
milehighassassin wrote:
Bill, I have hardwood floors. Will this be fine on the floor our should I put a small carpet under it, maybe rubber drawer liner?
You need a carpet or rugs covering at least 80% of the floor. Otherwise you'll end up with subway acoustics. Wood looks nice, sounds bad.
That's not really an option right now. Room is somewhat full between furniture and whatnot, I assume that helps. I actually have three couches in there.
I was asking if it matter if the THT sits on the hardwood floor, or if it would be better if I insulated it on a carpet piece or something below it.
milehighassassin wrote:
Bill, I have hardwood floors. Will this be fine on the floor our should I put a small carpet under it, maybe rubber drawer liner?
You need a carpet or rugs covering at least 80% of the floor. Otherwise you'll end up with subway acoustics. Wood looks nice, sounds bad.
That's not really an option right now. Room is somewhat full between furniture and whatnot, I assume that helps. I actually have three couches in there.
I was asking if it matter if the THT sits on the hardwood floor, or if it would be better if I insulated it on a carpet piece or something below it.
Use some rubber bumpers for feet available at just about any hardware store or pick up a set at Parts Express to keep the hardwood floor from getting scratched up.