I like the way you think! Yes . . The thick, gray PVC cement that, of all things, is designed to fill the gaps.miked wrote:Hey, no kill like overkill, right? I am assuming you will use some PVC cement to assemble the cab? Not sure if PL will stick to plastic. I would also run beads of silicone on all seams to ensure air tightness, as well as to ensure no water seeps in.
On a weird, related note; I have always thought that those 1" thick PVC partitions you see in restrooms would make for some solid subwoofer boxes.
Been looking forward to this build!
And again, yes . . beads of silicone on all the seams. I'm even considering doing that around the back cover . . could always be removed with a utility knife if access was necessary. In addition to the NL4MPR on the bottom, I'll be cutting the ports down there as well and mesh them to keep trespassing pests at bay.
From the Master himself . .second post down . . .miked wrote:I'm scratching my head a little bit...I'm assuming a 15" OTop is built the same way as a 12" OTop? I.E. the cab looks exactly the same, just larger.
Per the plans, the ports/handles are supposed to go on the sides. Many have wanted to put them on the back panel or the horn panels (of all places) but I've never heard of anyone putting them on the bottom. I know (very) little bit about ported cab design, but I know you don't want to put a port where it would be in a "direct reflection line" (that's a highly-technical term I just invented) with the rear of the cone. I.E. the back panel or the horn panels would be a very bad idea. Frankly, I don't see a diff b/t putting the ports on the side or the bottom panels, so hey, thumbs up, buddy. Of course I will defer to Master Yoda on that.
Being that you will be bi-amping, you won't have passive crossovers taking up space inside the cab, so making adequate room for the ports shouldn't be a problem. Just be sure that you allow enough "breathing room" around the ports with the mattress topper or whatever absorbent material you use.
I noticed you specified two amps for biamping....I'm assuming you're building a pair? The GX series aren't bridgeable, so you must be building a pair. The GX series punch above their weight; a pair of 15" OTops with the CDs you're using with those two amps will cover a football field nicely. Albiet a highly directional coverage, but darn if it won't be LOUD AND CLEAR.
Please post lots of pics. AFAIK, you're actually "making a first" here by building OTops out of PVC. So cool.
. . .The system was originally built and wired for discreet Left/ Right audio. It sounded pretty cool when the recorded material had been mixed with hard left to right pans . .sound effects as well, left to right . .especially the "Wildcat" roar when the home team made a first down! Everything was reflex direct radiator. The two little cones showing at the top of the outside towers are Atlas Sound CobraFlex horns driven by the aux 1 send buss on the Yamaha console. The one on the right faces the parking lot, the one on the left, the concession stand. Their purpose is simply to carry the PA announcers voice to the far reaches of the site not covered by the other speakers. Nothing but voice goes through them. The big round horns on the big tower behind the press box do nothing except provide a place for wasps to build their nests.
Not necessarily. . The four towers are permanent fixtures, and I'm pretty sure they school is not gonna want to move them. BUT. . what if the cabinet configuration was shuffled? As in, splayed Otops on the inner towers with subs on the outer towers? or vice versa . . . And the press box roof can become whatever is necessary. I'll entertain all ideas . .short of relocating the four towers.DJPhatman wrote:They have to go as in the picture?
+100. Having the subs off the ground puts them in free space, or -6dB, IIRC. I know for sure it is NFG. As far as tops placement is concerned, I would want to be able to place them near each goal line, turned in toward the center of the field, for the most coverage. Put the subs on the ground, under the bleachers if possible.Grant Bunter wrote:Subs work best on the ground.
If you stick them up on the poles, you'll simply need more...
Yep.Hackomatic wrote:Yeah, I'm painfully aware that subs work better at ground level. Unfortunately, the chances are pretty much zilch on being able to do that. As you will notice in the pic, the bleachers are in the side of a hill . . nothing but solid concrete where the seats are set. I fear sub placement will end up being a series of compromises, or as Grant points out just keep building and adding!
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