Jack 10 lite build x 2

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eac
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:27 pm

Jack 10 lite build x 2

#1 Post by eac »

Going to be building a couple of the J10 lites. The weight issue isn't important, but plywood availability is. I have had no luck finding even decent quality 1/2" ply anywhere around here. I use 1/4" and 1/8" BB ply all day in by model airplane biz, and the quality is fantastic. A bit more expensive, but I have it! Cool part it is readily available online, and can be shipped in 24"x48" sheets. Just now ordering 24" pieces of wood, they will take a week or so.

Sure wish there was a Wedgehorn 8 LITE! You listening, Bill???

Bill, One question, is 1/8" 3ply poplar ply OK for the 1/8" parts, as on the DR cabs?

All the parts will be cut on my CNC router, as they were for the Wedge8. Super accurate, including any angle cuts.

As soon as the wood arrives, I will start the build and adding pictures.

Don

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Tom Smit
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Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#2 Post by Tom Smit »

The WH6 can be made of 1/4" ply according to the sales page. (so, I guess, Bill pre-listened :lol: )

I would stick with the BB for 1/8" since it would be most simple, and you already have it.
TomS

eac
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:27 pm

Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#3 Post by eac »

Tom Smit wrote:The WH6 can be made of 1/4" ply according to the sales page. (so, I guess, Bill pre-listened :lol: )

Just received the CD, so I will have a look at the Wedge6 stuff, and see how it applied to the 8's.

I would stick with the BB for 1/8" since it would be most simple, and you already have it.
I have plenty of both, but I'm waiting patiently for Bill's response, since the 1/8" poplar is MUCH easier to work with on bending, (and a LOT cheaper, BTW), and I figure if it is works in the DR's, it should be fine in the J10 lites. The 1/8" BB would be much harder to bend, and heavier. I use nice 5 ply BB 1/8" for my stuff, so maybe that s my resevation. I do have access to 3 ply BB, though. Cheaper and lighter. Will wait to see what Bill says, but would rather use the 3 ply poplar...

Since I still have to build 1 or 2 more Wedge 8s, I'll have to do some CAD work on the wedge8's, while looking at the J10 lite plans. As long as the internal volume doesn't change, it shouldn't make any difference, just curved horn sides and top. and the curved surfaces add a lot of strength. Maybe Bill has something up his sleeve :wink:

Don

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Harley
Posts: 5763
Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:45 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand - Authorised BFM Cab Builder

Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#4 Post by Harley »

eac wrote:Sure wish there was a Wedgehorn 8 LITE! You listening, Bill???
No reason you can't work out a build yourself.

I have just looked at the plans and if I were to build one, I'd put in a few 1/8" braces here and there.
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

eac
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:27 pm

Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#5 Post by eac »

Harley wrote:
eac wrote:Sure wish there was a Wedgehorn 8 LITE! You listening, Bill???
No reason you can't work out a build yourself.

I have just looked at the plans and if I were to build one, I'd put in a few 1/8" braces here and there.
Yeah already working on it. I was mainly waiting for the OK on the 1/8" poplar instead of the 1/8" BB on the Jack10 lites, but I don't see an issue.

It is mentioned in the DR plans for the curved parts, but not the J10 lites. Hoping just an oversight...

Don

Grant Bunter
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Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
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Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#6 Post by Grant Bunter »

The comment was made in another thread (a while back) that 1/8" BB was required because it is three even plies.

I had no chance of finding that locally for my DR builds and was relieved to find the requirement was for three even plies rather than BB.

So, if your poplar ply is three even plies, it should be fine, and lighter to boot!
Other than that, a slight midrange EQ tweak may be required with Poplar as Birch generally produces a better midrange response.

Hope this helps...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

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kekani
Posts: 405
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Location: Kapolei, HI

Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#7 Post by kekani »

W6 Lites are badass, less than 13 lbs, loud as heck.

Now, to get on topic, I used 1/8" bending poplar in the 110 & 112 Lite builds. Lesson for me was IITP: use staples on the horns, not brads (which were great for the braces from the outside, rather than staples).

With BB, the 12's are 31#, with the 10's a sub 25# cab. It's going to be nice with a cnc, there are a LOT of parts.

Aaron
Wedgehorn 6 (x2)
Jack 110 Lites (x2)
XF212 (Egnater style)
DR200 ASD (Yes! Finally!)

eac
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Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#8 Post by eac »

kekani wrote:W6 Lites are badass, less than 13 lbs, loud as heck.

Now, to get on topic, I used 1/8" bending poplar in the 110 & 112 Lite builds. Lesson for me was IITP: use staples on the horns, not brads (which were great for the braces from the outside, rather than staples).

With BB, the 12's are 31#, with the 10's a sub 25# cab. It's going to be nice with a cnc, there are a LOT of parts.

Aaron
Thanks for the info... I may have forgot about the staple thing, even though I read it ;)

Off topic, I got the cut sheet ready for the W8 'lite', sides, top, bottom, and back parts resized. Instead of doubling up, I will cut the speaker mount and phase plug from 1/2". Not spending the time doing the curved 1/8" stuff yet, but may do it later, when I have some free time to do the CAD work.

Thanks,

Don

eac
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:27 pm

Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#9 Post by eac »

Had to cut a bnch of 1/4" PLY kit parts out, so I added a set of horn parts to the sheet. Not sure which way I'm going, driver or melded peizos. Each have their advantages.. So till I get some bigger sheets of 1/4" in, I decided to make a horn to play with.

Parts turned out great, all CNC cut except for the tapered horn sides. Did those by hand, as per the book. Cut the jig on the CNC router, though. All the angles are spot on, just a few swipes of a block sander smooths them out nicely.

Need to get an air brad nailer, I found out what I have only does staples :( so no pics of the horn put together. Clamped it all together, fits great and looks good.

I'm thinking about making the horn and peizos removable, so either one can go into the cabs. Mount the crossovers on the horn and peizos themselves, and have a molex connector to plug them in, that way I can play around to decide which I want, plus, in case of problems, such as blown driver or damaged peizos, I have a spare high end assembly to use in a hurry..

Really looking forward to getting the larger pieces of wood. 12" x 48" won't work ;(

Don
Attachments
1/4" birch ply horn parts, CNC cut.
1/4" birch ply horn parts, CNC cut.

eac
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:27 pm

Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#10 Post by eac »

Hooray! Found 1/4" Baltic Birch PLY at a Hardwood Shop about 1.5 hours away that I had forgot about :D

If you are in the Springfied, MO area, Check out OP Hardwoods. Great selection, and they have 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" BB PLY in 5' x 5' sheets, and it is beautiful wood. Straight and perfect! All stacked flat and stored indoors. Now I don't have to order the Aircraft Ply (same thing) from my main supplier at a higher cost, and don't have to wait another week. Since I had the sheet sizes I needed for the CNC cutting ready, they did all the cuts for $6.50... 2 cuts on 1 board, and 4 on the other. Oh yeah, under $30 per sheet.

Since I was going to be out cutting most of the day, I slipped in a couple sheets of the new ply and cut a bunch of parts. Hopefully will finish tonight. Just cutting one till I know it all goes together. I trust the plans, just making sure I didn't put any wrong values in when laying out the CAD work.

You will notice tabs and matching slots in most of the parts. It only take a few minutes in CAD to do this, I do it on most of my RC kits. IT will speed up construction greatly, since everything will automatically align perfectly. No more screwing around getting stuff lined up before fastening :clap:

More pics later.....
Attachments
Back brace dry fit
Back brace dry fit
Back brace parts showing tabs and slots
Back brace parts showing tabs and slots
Neutrik Jack in place
Neutrik Jack in place
Bottom Panel with top hat hole and slots for tabs on Baffle
Bottom Panel with top hat hole and slots for tabs on Baffle
Side panel with Neutrik cutouts
Side panel with Neutrik cutouts

eac
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:27 pm

Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#11 Post by eac »

A couple of pictures showing the cabinet dry fitted together. Still have to cut the angles on the sides and duct tops. Will do those on the table saw...

Once I cut the baffle, with the tabs on the feet, it will go together perfectly square..

Don
Attachments
DSC07502.JPG
DSC07501.JPG

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Tom Smit
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Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#12 Post by Tom Smit »

Intriguing!
Last edited by Tom Smit on Fri Aug 17, 2012 11:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
TomS

eac
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Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#13 Post by eac »

The rest of the parts are cut, except but the poplar ply curved parts, which will cut when needed, to verify fit, and the woofer spacer, which will cut from 1/2", instead of gluing two 1/4" pieces together. Waiting for speakers to arrive, so I can verify the hole size.

Also made four 1/4" plugs to fill the holes in the top and bottom, where I was originally going to make the baffle out of 1/2" ply. They make up the difference between the 1/2" and 1/4" tabs. Used the mantra, 'Trust the plans, Luke' ooops, I mean Don

Glad I cut one out first, instead of both at once. Already found a few changes I want to make. The baffle back to 1/4" was the first change, and I want to add a fillet to the inside corner of the sheath braces. Inside corners coming to a point like that are just waiting to fracture. It makes it much easier for hand cutting that way, but since I'm cutting it CNC, might as well take advantage of it.

Hopefully the build will start tomorrow. This will be fun. :hyper: They will be much more fun to build than the W8's were.

Don
Attachments
baffle
baffle
more parts
more parts

djlivex
Posts: 525
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 7:34 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#14 Post by djlivex »

Nice work! Can you do flat packs of the Jack 10 Lite for us here? Just curious, CNC I wish I have one! LOL 8)
BaasssS, . . how low can you GO!

Grant Bunter
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Re: Jack 10 lite build x 2

#15 Post by Grant Bunter »

Don,
The hours it must have taken to work out everything in CAD has certainly been worthwhile!
Looks brilliant so far...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

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