I wasn't going to document my Jack 110 Lite build because I knew it would be like the 112 Lite. But I did some different techniques, and tried to wipe out the "exactness" that I was looking for on previous builds. Also, time to put my money where my mouth is; I made the statement that this goes together pretty quick, if all the parts are cut.
I'll make this statement now - I'd do the Lite plan everyday of the week, and twice on Sunday vs the regular Jack if only for two reasons that are important to me. 1: very easy to get square. 2: goes together not only fast, but easy with staples (and brads), and its very easy to get square (did I mention that?). And 3: its not as messy with the PL glue, but that's not really important to me.
Not to disagree with Bill on the degree of difficulty, but I'm guessing that lies mostly in the milling of the parts, which are more time consuming and difficult compared to the original Jacks. Assembly seemed a little more up my alley.
Anyway, here is a quick review of the pair of Jack 110 Lites I just did, and the little differences I applied from the Jack 112 Lite build, which is basically the same build. Most of the techniques I used are the same, so I'll try to highlight the differences and lessons learned/best practices (for me) in this thread (vs the 112 Lite thread).
I attempted to reduce the amount of templates, which although exact, are really time consuming. Here, I'll take advantage of the "play" that the plans allow. This also means using simpler tools (which for me is a bandsaw vs router). Also, I applied lessons learned from Bill on the first Lite build, specifically reading the plans exactly, and using staples on the horns.
I started cutting on Friday night, and about 8 hours off and on, ended here Saturday morning. Still gotta cut the curves and 1/8" ply, but basically, milling is mostly done. Yes, I am going to take advantage of my laser cut acrylic baffle template with center line (got one for the 112 as well).
I made a low tech tool that helped a lot in time savings, but more for consistent replication, a measuring stick. Invaluable, and cheap.
Square by Saturday night.
One of the things I ran out of was 18ga brads, which I'd use again specifically for attaching the horn braces to the sides and baffles
By Sunday night (I went out during the day) lots of staples (not brads) for the horns. Taking advantage of the gluing position (face down) and started the baffle braces glue up.
I did take a few days off from building, and was busy for the next couple of weekends, but I think to get to the point of horns in a weekend was pretty good. I did have one more template made for the throat piece, just so I don't have to do all the measuring from centerline (if you have the plans, you know what this is). Yes, got one of these for the 12 as well. Taped the 1/8" ply together, and cut them all at once on the bandsaw - easy money.
Suffice to say I finished the cabs in two weekends, but used the days throughout the week to lay two coats of Duratex. I attached the crossover to the back (using Leland's PCB board). The Speakon/Jack plate is tight, so its a good thing the back bracing is centered properly. Here's the pair, sitting on the Jack 112 Lite. They're definitely lighter than the 31lb Jack112 Lite at 26 lbs. One handed carry for sure, and lifting both of them are lighter than a single JBL 115.
I used the bandsaw for the curved cuts, and although they weren't exact like a router and template, they're better than good enough. Jigsaw definitely can be used here.
I didn't pay too much attention to the bondo on the horns, as I knew they'd have a grill cover.
SKETCHUP IS YOUR FRIEND! Suffice to say, I needed it to see the baffle spacer and phase plug extension into the driver to cut the right amount of parts.
Strap handles are good enough, and I'd do both sides. Added an extra piece of 1/4" ply to support the H-nuts from the inside.
Added in additional 1/4" ply piece to support the back feet (the front screws through the horn brace).
I like the new cloth I got from Parts Express, vs the "nylon" cab looking material I used on the the Jack 112 (Koa) and Wedgehorn 6's. Softer, and easier to get tight across the frame. Attached with velcro, and held in by the corners as well.
One of the things I wanted to prove to myself here is what this site is about - you can build cabs without a whole lot of specialized tools. Yes, I have them, but from this build, I can see where a jigsaw and circular saw is invaluable if you don't have the larger equipment. Actually, for the baffle, I wish I did have a jigsaw. How's that?
Bill, GREAT NEW DESIGN!
I guess I'll add the review in here:
As a PA, they can handle the bass. As a stack, two are better than one. If I never built the 112's, I wouldn't need to. That I did build the 112's, I'm glad I did. The 112's sound fuller on the lower end, as they should, especially for PA; but not by a whole lot that you would miss if they weren't side by side. Of course, my 112's are well broken in, and the 110's could stand more use, which it will. I'm sure it'll break in very nicely (even though I did break them in prior to install).
Size wise, they don't look a whole lot different. They are. I'd much rather lug the 110 than the 112. At least I know I can run my 112 (Koa) bass cab with the 110 on stands as PA if I need more bass - now I just need a micro bass amp. . .