I finished the last tensioning operation this morning on the mesh screens. It was possible to not put a retaining peg on every gripper rod spike - the spikes in between stayed engaged in the mesh, so this made it only a 10 minute job for each side, plus a bit for gluing and nailing the battens on.
Am pleased with the result. This one is the second screen - i realised courage is needed to properly trim the backside mitres at the corners and not try to overlap anything. The screen will stand out a bit yet with some velcro needing to go in the side joints, but I'll show a finished pic when done.
A photo of wiring the tweeters - I'm doing them series parallel with the grs piezos being more sensitive than goldwoods.
A photo of starting wiring in the filters. I'd forgotten how long this stage takes, well, me at least - it doesn't feel like I'm getting any quicker,
. I cannot manage to do it in the cab - the solution to me seems to make all the wires long enough to be able to join as much as practicable outside the back cover, on an elevated wooden board, then fit it all in and tie wrap wires off where you can. Is it ok to use hot glue for strain relief of (a) insulated wires interfacing the filter boards?, (b) to hold down flying lead wires on the board itself? I.e. do filters get warm enough to soften the glue - anyone had glue come undone. I know we tie wrap components down as well as hot glue, but I'm thinking that the interconnecting wires need to be tied down to stop resonant vibration from breaking anything - it will start to look way more of a dog's breakfast if I have to tie wrap them as well.
2xJ12L (3012HO) switchable/melded (viewtopic.php?f=30&t=18773
2xT30 : viewtopic.php?f=30&t=20386
No sound is better than bad sound.