A beginners guide to soldering.

Helpful hints on how to build 'em, and where to get the stuff you need.
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Grant Bunter
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A beginners guide to soldering.

#1 Post by Grant Bunter »

Apologies if this already exists.

There seems to have been a few threads lately where some forum members are saying they haven't soldered before and doubt their results, so I thought we may be able to make up a sticky to assist :)

What you need:

All my soldering for my cabs is done with a 25W electric soldering iron. A cheap one. You can buy a soldering station with temperature control if you want, but a cheap one will do fine. The standard tip that comes with these irons is fine. You don't need the micro tip required for SMD's (surface mount devices).
Solder; I prefer lead/tin resin core solder, but you can get lead free nowadays. 1.5mm (1/16") is fine.
A scrap of damp cloth or sponge, to wipe the iron tip if it gets a build up of resin or excess solder.
A smallish sized side cutter.
A reasonable set of wire strippers.
Also handy, some sort of heatsink, eg a medical artery forcep/haemostat, but not essential.

Before you start:

Have the iron hot, turn it on, let it get hot!
Have everything you need at hand. Including you components, tweets, whatever.
Remember that iron is hot, it burns!
Have a plan about how you're going to work eg, I'll do this then this then this.

"Tin" everything. Tinning is simply putting some solder on each "half" of what you intend to solder together, so for example, you strip a piece of wire you're going to put on the tab of a tweet.
You put the soldering iron to the stripped wire and melt some solder into that. And put the soldering iron on the tab of the tweet and melt some solder onto that.
The leads of components like resistors and capacitors don't need tinning.

Many components don't like excessive heat. If you hold a hot iron onto a tweet tab or component for 5 minutes, you will fry it. It won't work when you're done.

I use a three count. Iron on, 2, apply solder, 3, iron off. If you haven't got your joint in that time, don't fret, just let it all cool down and go again in a few moments.
If you use a heatsink, like an artery clip, clip it to the "sensitive" side of what your soldering.
So in the case of a tweet, that's the wire going to the tweeter from the tab. Or with a component, the component itself. Clip it onto the lead or tab or wire inside where you need to solder!

What result are you looking for?
Give the two pieces a tug. Do they come apart again? If they do, it's not adequate.
Your joint should look shiny with no residual resin.

Remember, you can always try again!

Practice, cut a length of wire into pieces, strip each end, tin the end(s), solder them together.
You'll soon get a feel for it :)

Feel free to chip in...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Bruce Weldy
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Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#2 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Excellent advice Grant! :clap:

And while a cheap pencil works fine (NO GUNS), I really, really, really like my Weller soldering station. For less than $50 you have everything you need - variable temp, iron holder, sponge.

If you plan to do much soldering, treat yourself with a good tool - and you'll become a better solderer....(I think I made up a new word). :roll:

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#3 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

I use a 75w gun. Low wattage guns take a long time to heat the work, and that can cause much more heat damage than a high wattage gun that lets you get it hot fast.

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 8301
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#4 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:I use a 75w gun. Low wattage guns take a long time to heat the work, and that can cause much more heat damage than a high wattage gun that lets you get it hot fast.

Do you build XLR and TRS cables with a gun? Or, just crossovers? I couldn't imagine trying to use a gun for cables. :shock:

Of course, I guess a lot of folks here are buying their cables and just soldering crossovers....

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

Robin_Larsson
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:01 pm
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden

Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#5 Post by Robin_Larsson »

+1 to Bill:) I´ve heard that before, never actually tried to use a bigger gun to solder smallish cables though, might have to try!

Good guide to soldering Grant!

Btw, do you guys usually solder your speakons, or does anyone use Fastons(if thats the correct name)? I dont really like to solder Speakons, even more so when your linking two of them and connecting the speaker :P
Was thinking that Fastons and a splice connector like these: https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~eu_en/elfa/in ... &toc=20026 would be faster and more servicefriendly, but more expensive then just soldering, and removing the any risk of a bad soldering ;)

Sorry for the hijack..
Robin Larsson
Nzone Audio & Lights

Built so far:
2x 31.5" T48: 3015LF loaded
2x DR280: 3012HO/CD10fe loaded (bi-amped)
2x Jack 15 Lite: 3015HO loaded (Electric Bass)

Also using:
4x 27" T30: 3012LF loaded (Osse´s cabs, lives at Nzone HQ;)

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kekani
Posts: 405
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2011 12:45 pm
Location: Kapolei, HI

Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#6 Post by kekani »

Not unlike Bruce, once you go to a station, guns and pencils are very, uncontrolled? They heat SUPER fast too.

Personally, I make all my own cables, instrument, XLR, TRS and speaker. Canare and Neutrik, just because I've had success with them. Actually, I should say I've not had failure where I've seen other brands fail. For instrument cables, I use G&H connectors; I just like the design. Have also use Neutrik for 1/4" as well.
Robin_Larsson wrote:+1 to Bill:) I´ve heard that before, never actually tried to use a bigger gun to solder smallish cables though, might have to try!

Good guide to soldering Grant!

Btw, do you guys usually solder your speakons, or does anyone use Fastons(if thats the correct name)? I dont really like to solder Speakons, even more so when your linking two of them and connecting the speaker :P
Was thinking that Fastons and a splice connector like these: https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~eu_en/elfa/in ... &toc=20026 would be faster and more servicefriendly, but more expensive then just soldering, and removing the any risk of a bad soldering ;)

Sorry for the hijack..
I solder my wires to a spade connector(s), and slide them onto the speakon jacks. When you mentioned soldering speakons, I thought you meant the cables. Which, by the way, I "tin" my Starquad Speaker cable before securing them in the Speakon connectors.

To add to the thread - heat "pulls" the solder, so if you're "tinning" a twisted wire, heat the tip (read: cut end of the wire) and run the solder in and "away from the tip". You'll see the solder seep through the twisted wire assuring a good base for continuity.
Wedgehorn 6 (x2)
Jack 110 Lites (x2)
XF212 (Egnater style)
DR200 ASD (Yes! Finally!)

Robin_Larsson
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:01 pm
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden

Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#7 Post by Robin_Larsson »

kekani wrote:I solder my wires to a spade connector(s), and slide them onto the speakon jacks. When you mentioned soldering speakons, I thought you meant the cables. Which, by the way, I "tin" my Starquad Speaker cable before securing them in the Speakon connectors.
Well, thats one good way to do it, I guess you get a really good and secure connection that way:) Why not just use the crimp connectors and save the soldering? Not as secure perhaps?

Yeah, I meant the chassi speakons with flat tabs, should have said so :oops: I´ve read different opinions on "tinning" ends of cables, havent really tried with tinned ends. In the marine industry we often use tinned cables, but thats mostly for corrosionresistance, and rather expensive.

Kekani, I do the same, solder/build all my own cables, DMX/Audio and Speakoncables so far :P Using only Neutrik, and Sommercable/Cordial cables. Before I started making our cables my self, we had a lot of trouble with low price DMX cables, havent had a single cableproblem since we went to homemade cables with Neutrik NC3 series XLR and Sommercable Binary 234, also using Neutriks coloured and transparent codingrings to mark all cables with length (color) and our company name, cabletype and length with a label under transparent rings:) Thats really handy when you have 20-30odd dmx cables in one bag :P
Robin Larsson
Nzone Audio & Lights

Built so far:
2x 31.5" T48: 3015LF loaded
2x DR280: 3012HO/CD10fe loaded (bi-amped)
2x Jack 15 Lite: 3015HO loaded (Electric Bass)

Also using:
4x 27" T30: 3012LF loaded (Osse´s cabs, lives at Nzone HQ;)

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Radian
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Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 12:56 pm
Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#8 Post by Radian »

I've been using a Portasol PSI100K for the last 5 years.

Works great on the bench and out in the car. Plenty hot, even outdoors during the winter.

Only downside is the exhaust vent can melt the workpiece if it's accidentally pointed downward during use. :oops:
Good food, good people, good times.

4 - AT
1 - TT
1 - THT Slim
2 - SLA Pro 4x6 Alphalite

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#9 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Bruce Weldy wrote:
Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:I use a 75w gun. Low wattage guns take a long time to heat the work, and that can cause much more heat damage than a high wattage gun that lets you get it hot fast.

Do you build XLR and TRS cables with a gun?
Yep. Low wattage takes a long time to heat the wire, and that can melt the insulation. High wattage heats the wire quickly and you can tin it before the insulation has time to melt.

Grant Bunter
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Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
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Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#10 Post by Grant Bunter »

:slap: Must remember, not everyone pays the same prices as Australia.

Go ahead, get a great workstation :)

All good advice from every else.

Soldering speakons with tabs is where the heat sink idea comes in handy. Use the clip to hold the wires onto the tab, with the clip almost touching the plastic housing. Solder away! You won't melt the plastic housing at all, or move the tab in the plastic, or any of those other things that can and have happened...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6915
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#11 Post by Grant Bunter »

Is it worth a sticky Bill?
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

byacey
Posts: 948
Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:09 am
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#12 Post by byacey »

Only use rosin core solder, preferably 60/40 % tin to lead ratio, If you can find 63/37 % that's even better; this has the lowest melting temperature.

Do not use acid core flux ever, under any circumstances! Any acid core flux as used in the plumbing industry will continue to corrode and will eventually lead to an intermittent, corroded solder joint.

Keep the iron tip tinned so it's clean and shiny. Wipe it often on a damp cloth or sponge to wipe off flux residue and slag impurities from the solder. If you have adjustable temp control, 700 to 750F is ideal for general soldering of connectors. For fine PC board work, 600-650F is better suited to prevent lifting traces from the board through over heating.

I like to apply a small amount of solder immediately upon heating the pieces to be soldered. This increases the transfer of heat between the iron tip and the piece to be soldered, bringing the work up to soldering temperature faster.

Brass and cheaper type connectors that have a low grade of tinning can be made easier to solder by gently scraping the surface with the hot iron tip and some molten solder first. It will make a squeaking noise while doing so. At first the solder will tend to bead up, but it will flow out nicely when the oxide layer is broken through. At this point it is well tinned and will be easy to solder.

Old copper wire that is dull looking, or even black from moisture exposure will benefit from being polished up with some 220 grit sandpaper first.
Built
T48s
WH8s
SX212

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#13 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Grant Bunter wrote:Is it worth a sticky Bill?
Wrong section, it should be in Tips and Techniques.

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 8301
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#14 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:
Bruce Weldy wrote:
Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:I use a 75w gun. Low wattage guns take a long time to heat the work, and that can cause much more heat damage than a high wattage gun that lets you get it hot fast.

Do you build XLR and TRS cables with a gun?
Yep. Low wattage takes a long time to heat the wire, and that can melt the insulation. High wattage heats the wire quickly and you can tin it before the insulation has time to melt.

Well, this is definitely a "to each his own" moment. :)

My Weller station gets very hot on the max setting - no problem soldering 12 ga wire to Speakon chassis mount connectors. I typically turn it down a little for 20-22ga wire when doing xlr and trs. And I do build a bunch of 'em.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

Robin_Larsson
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:01 pm
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden

Re: A beginners guide to soldering.

#15 Post by Robin_Larsson »

Bruce Weldy wrote: Well, this is definitely a "to each his own" moment. :)

My Weller station gets very hot on the max setting - no problem soldering 12 ga wire to Speakon chassis mount connectors. I typically turn it down a little for 20-22ga wire when doing xlr and trs. And I do build a bunch of 'em.
I agree with there Bruce, I´m rather happy with my 48W soldering station, havent tried it on max temp, 450C, yet, I´ll do that next time I solder 12-14 ga to speakons:) I usually run it at around 300C I think when soldering XLR/TRS, works like a charm :D

But, aside from price, is there any reason to not use crimped Faston/spade-sleeve connectors? I found somewhere that the 4.8mm version only handles up to 15A, which is a bit low, the speakons themselves handles 30A.. Not that we get anywhere near 30A with Bills speakers!
Robin Larsson
Nzone Audio & Lights

Built so far:
2x 31.5" T48: 3015LF loaded
2x DR280: 3012HO/CD10fe loaded (bi-amped)
2x Jack 15 Lite: 3015HO loaded (Electric Bass)

Also using:
4x 27" T30: 3012LF loaded (Osse´s cabs, lives at Nzone HQ;)

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