THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
So the plans say to use a jig saw on a 45 so there is enough wood for the hurricane nuts.
Has anyone tried cutting the hole with a straight router bit?
Since I dont have a jig saw this is what i am thinking of trying:
Use my router and circle jig to cut the hole, then go around the hole with a 45 chamfer bit with the router.
Dumb idea, or should I get a jig saw? (eyeing up the festool jig saw)
I have no problem buying a jig saw, but if I can make this cut with what I already have, then all the better.
Has anyone tried cutting the hole with a straight router bit?
Since I dont have a jig saw this is what i am thinking of trying:
Use my router and circle jig to cut the hole, then go around the hole with a 45 chamfer bit with the router.
Dumb idea, or should I get a jig saw? (eyeing up the festool jig saw)
I have no problem buying a jig saw, but if I can make this cut with what I already have, then all the better.
Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
If you're planning to use hurricane nuts, the 45 degree cut is moot. Just cut the hole straight with a router or jig saw 1/8th inch smaller in diameter than the inside diameter of the driver gasket. 
The chamfer comes into play if you're using t-nuts.

The chamfer comes into play if you're using t-nuts.
Last edited by Radian on Sun Dec 05, 2010 3:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
That's the preferred method, but most builders don't own a router.bean438 wrote:So the plans say to use a jig saw on a 45 so there is enough wood for the hurricane nuts.
Has anyone tried cutting the hole with a straight router bit?
Since I dont have a jig saw this is what i am thinking of trying:
Use my router and circle jig to cut the hole, then go around the hole with a 45 chamfer bit with the router.
Dumb idea, or should I get a jig saw? (eyeing up the festool jig saw)
I have no problem buying a jig saw, but if I can make this cut with what I already have, then all the better.
Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
I will be useing 10/32 huricane nuts.
Aren't huricane and t nuts both "blind" nuts?
How big of a pilot should I drill for the huricanes?
I also noticed that the plans say to glue the nuts in. So basically drill pilot, coat with glue, and pull into wood?
As for the bolts, the only thing parts express had was a weird security head bolt. How long of a bolt do I need, say 1-1/2"?
As for storing the driver after test fitting, why not just instal the driver after th baffle is installed, and build around it? Wouldn't it be easier then doing it later? Dumb idea?
Aren't huricane and t nuts both "blind" nuts?
How big of a pilot should I drill for the huricanes?
I also noticed that the plans say to glue the nuts in. So basically drill pilot, coat with glue, and pull into wood?
As for the bolts, the only thing parts express had was a weird security head bolt. How long of a bolt do I need, say 1-1/2"?
As for storing the driver after test fitting, why not just instal the driver after th baffle is installed, and build around it? Wouldn't it be easier then doing it later? Dumb idea?
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Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
If you are using 10/32 screws then i would think a 10/32 hole would do,best to try it out on some scrap wood first.
Hurricane and t nuts are blind nuts,i would imagine they are called that because of the way they are installed in the back of baffles,out of sight.
The glue being used on t nuts and hurricane nuts is not PL,its Loctite,the blue one.PL doesnt stick too well to metals.Drill pilots,pull partially into wood so you arent rushing trying to pull the nut in before the glue dries,then b4 the nut makes contact with the wood,apply glue,you may have to chase the nuts to clear any glue from the threads.
As far as the bolts,if you told Leland at speaker hardware what you need the bolts for,he will send you what you need.
The reason drivers are installed afterwards is to protect them from damage during construction.Its easier to install the driver afterwards than installing it early,damaging it,having to take it back out,wait for a new driver,only to finish the box and have to install the driver at the end anyway so its just a smart safety precaution.Another note about screws,those screws with the "weird security heads" are used because they are easier to tighten with an allen wrench as opposed to trying to get a screw driver in a tight driver chamber,you wont strip them,or stab your driver trying to tighten it down.Much success to you.
Hurricane and t nuts are blind nuts,i would imagine they are called that because of the way they are installed in the back of baffles,out of sight.
The glue being used on t nuts and hurricane nuts is not PL,its Loctite,the blue one.PL doesnt stick too well to metals.Drill pilots,pull partially into wood so you arent rushing trying to pull the nut in before the glue dries,then b4 the nut makes contact with the wood,apply glue,you may have to chase the nuts to clear any glue from the threads.
As far as the bolts,if you told Leland at speaker hardware what you need the bolts for,he will send you what you need.
The reason drivers are installed afterwards is to protect them from damage during construction.Its easier to install the driver afterwards than installing it early,damaging it,having to take it back out,wait for a new driver,only to finish the box and have to install the driver at the end anyway so its just a smart safety precaution.Another note about screws,those screws with the "weird security heads" are used because they are easier to tighten with an allen wrench as opposed to trying to get a screw driver in a tight driver chamber,you wont strip them,or stab your driver trying to tighten it down.Much success to you.
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Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
If 10/32" is the size of the bolt then wouldn't the pilot be bigger than that? The hurricane nuts are larger than 10/32.
As for glueing the nuts the plan says to use gorilla glue.
Why glue though? The huricane nuts have "barbs". This should be strong enough, right?
As for chasing the glue out of the threads, does that mean a tap? Leland sells a 10/32 tap.
Do you just screw in the tap and screw it out? Why not just screw a bolt in and out?
Sorry for the dumb questions.
As for glueing the nuts the plan says to use gorilla glue.
Why glue though? The huricane nuts have "barbs". This should be strong enough, right?
As for chasing the glue out of the threads, does that mean a tap? Leland sells a 10/32 tap.
Do you just screw in the tap and screw it out? Why not just screw a bolt in and out?
Sorry for the dumb questions.
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Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
The difference between a tap and a bolt is all the difference in the world. A bolt will run in so far until it hits debris. But if you then drive this debris between the bolt threads and the nut threads it will go horribly tight and you're worse off than you were. A tap has cut flutes along its length to allow the debris to get away. So you go in so far with the tap and withdraw nearly as far to let the waste out and then in you go again.
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Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
10/32 hurricanes require a 1/4 hole. Epoxy on the barrel as you pull them into the wood. The flutes will hold by themselves, but if you get overzealous with the bolt you can spin them. The epoxy cures that. It's a little heavy in the last pic, but I really wanted it to show up. It also shows how far in to pull a hurricane.
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Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
Leland have I told you how awesome you are?
Thanks for the pics. Your washer is a normal one, but I need a lock washer right?
As for epoxy, it is all the same right?
I still cant see why the 45 bevel is moot with a hurricane nut? Dont t nuts and hurricanes both need extra wood? By all means if I can get away with a straight cut and avoid another tool purchase then i am all for it.
Thanks for the pics. Your washer is a normal one, but I need a lock washer right?
As for epoxy, it is all the same right?
I still cant see why the 45 bevel is moot with a hurricane nut? Dont t nuts and hurricanes both need extra wood? By all means if I can get away with a straight cut and avoid another tool purchase then i am all for it.
Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
No, only T-nuts do. The teeth need something to bite into.bean438 wrote: Dont t nuts and hurricanes both need extra wood?
If an H-nut flange hangs over the edge of the baffle a bit, it's no big deal.
bean438 wrote:By all means if I can get away with a straight cut and avoid another tool purchase then i am all for it.

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Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
The washer shown was for spreading the load when pulling in the H-nut, otherwise the bolt would pull into/through the wood. Oooo, that wouldn't be good!.bean438 wrote: Your washer is a normal one, but I need a lock washer right?
When installing the driver, use a star washer under the bolt head to lock bolt in place; it's better than a lock washer.
TomS
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Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
Your timing for hnut questions was really good. I've been getting photos taken for other projects, some of which are applicable here. Nothin like a guy with a Nikon, lights, and knowledge.
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Re: THT/table driver cut out without jig saw?
I am also wondering why psg had issues with his cut out?
He followed the plans and had to remove more wood after.
The plans call for a hole 2/8" smaller than Partsexpress lists.
Maybe something has changed with the driver design?
Once I make my cut I cannot redo it.
He followed the plans and had to remove more wood after.
The plans call for a hole 2/8" smaller than Partsexpress lists.
Maybe something has changed with the driver design?
Once I make my cut I cannot redo it.